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Steve DaleWhile rabbits can be wonderful pets, they’re often acquired without much forethought or concern for their needs. The following information can help curious clients decide if a bunny is right for their family and provide the proper care these special animals need.

  1. Rabbits are often an impulse purchase made for young children, but in reality they are an 8- to 12-year commitment and better suited to adults or to families with older children. Research beforehand can help ensure that they are the right pet at the right time for a family.
  2. Rabbits have special health needs and require regular veterinary checks and wellness exams. Be prepared to refer clients to an exotic companion mammal specialist or, if one isn’t available in your area, to educate yourself about their needs.
  3. House rabbits should be spayed or neutered. Uterine cancer rates are high among female rabbits. If the cancer hasn’t metastasized, there’s a high curative rate, but if it has, which is common as rabbits age, the outlook is not good. Females can be spayed when they are six months old. Male rabbits can be neutered when 8 to 12 weeks old. Neutering can help to prevent potential hormone-related behaviors in bunnies. That’s important, because those behaviors are often a reason rabbits are relinquished to shelters. Clients should be prepared to seek the advice of a rabbit behavior expert in case their rabbit exhibits behaviors they don’t understand. Putting a house rabbit outdoors to fend for himself is a death sentence.
  4. Pet rabbits aren’t Bugs Bunny. People think rabbits like to eat carrots, and they’re right about that. However, carrots, apples, and other fruits high in sugar should be offered only as small occasional treats. A rabbit’s diet should consist of high-quality pellets and daily fresh hay (timothy hay, oat hay, and other grass hays). Access to fresh hay is essential to rabbit health. Note: rabbits can be great companions for vegetarians in search of a non-meat-eating pet.
  5. Rabbits are often purchased for young children, but the two aren’t a good match. Young children are hard-wired to hug, cuddle, pick up, and carry rabbits. “Rabbits are prey animals by nature; the only time they’re picked up is if they are about to be dinner,” says Anne Martin, executive director of the House Rabbit Society. “They’re usually very fearful of being held and snuggled. Adults and older children are better aware of rabbit body language and respond to what the rabbit is ‘saying.’”
  6. Rabbits don’t like being held, lifted up, or hugged. They may squirm when picked up, Martin says, and are easily injured if dropped.
  7. Rabbits are easy to litter box train. They need a litter box that is large enough to give them plenty of space to move around. Advise clients to fill the box with rabbit-safe litter and fresh hay.
  8. Rabbits are social and love having friends. Before bunny play dates are arranged, though, each bunny should be spayed or neutered and have a clean bill of health. Rabbits can be picky about who their friends are. Clients should place them side by side in cages at first to test compatibility.
  9. Bunnies prefer predictability and aren’t fond of turmoil. They need a place where they can retreat from commotion.
  10. Rabbits should live indoors. Rabbits kept outdoors are at risk from lawn herbicides and pesticides; predators, including neighborhood dogs; and inclement weather. They are happier, healthier, and safer living indoors.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Steve Dale, CABC (certified animal behavior consultant) has written and contributed to many books about pets; hosts three radio shows; contributes to Veterinary Practice News, CATSTER and others; is on the Board of Directors of the Human Animal Bond Association and Winn Feline Foundation, and is chief correspondent for Fear Free Happy Homes. He speaks at conferences worldwide. His blog: www.stevedale.tv
 

Linda Lombardi

Low-stress handling techniques are better for all pets, but they’re particularly important for exotics.

“With exotics, you really want to minimize distress, because a lot of them when they’re sick are really prone to cardiovascular failure,” says Jörg Mayer, DVM, DABVP, associate professor of zoological medicine at the University of Georgia.

Exotics are more stressed by handling than domestic animals, and diagnostic imaging can present particular challenges since you need the animal to keep still. Anesthesia will do it, of course, but can present its own problems. Dr. Mayer uses a number of techniques that can eliminate the need for anesthesia in some cases while keeping animals calm and still.

Dark Means Calm

One simple trick is to take advantage of diurnal animals’ natural response to light and darkness, a technique Mayer often uses with birds.

“In the wild, you don’t see a goose flying at night,” he says, “To them, the moment the lights go off, that means ‘We should be resting.’”

Darkness, then, will calm waterfowl. The same is true for parrots.

“A lot of psittacines need a high intensity of light in order to see, so if you can just dim the room, they simmer right down,” he says. It doesn’t need to be pitch black, so you can get the benefit of this effect while still being able to see well enough to do the job.

With birds Mayer says often the image does not need to be perfect or detailed; for example, a scan to see if they’re eggbound or have swallowed something toxic such as a lead sinker. In this case, waterfowl may be laid on their backs in a darkened room and will hold still for long enough without distress. “It’s a very quick scan, so you don’t necessarily need the absolutely perfect position for them,” he says.

Parrots, on the other hand, would be extremely stressed by that position, but can often be scanned on a perch in a darkened room or, if they’re too sick to perch, in a box.

Benzodiazepines Have Multiple Benefits

For cases requiring more detailed imaging, Mayer says heavy sedation is often all that’s needed. Benzodiazepines have several beneficial effects. For an intelligent bird such as a parrot, it’s significant that these drugs suppress both anxiety and memory.

“With very smart birds like most of these psittacines, you do a couple of procedures and quickly they learn that the guy in the white coat is really bad news, because every time he comes he does something horrible to you,” he says. “So this is where these benzodiazepines, because they’re amnesic and anxiolytic, help significantly because there’s no learning effect, so this makes future exams less stressful.”

Small mammals such as rabbits may be too weak to move much when ill, but that doesn’t mean you should try to image them with no medication. “We don’t really want to handle them without any sedation, because that gets the blood pressure up and gets the heart rate up and that’s exactly what you don’t want,” Mayer says. “With a very sick or compromised patient, that can be enough to push them over the edge.”

Benzodiazepines are safe to use in the face of the possibility of cardiovascular complications. “The nice thing is that these have no real cardiovascular depressant effect, so we can use them in the most critically ill patients.”

Use Containers

Mayer has several strategies for containing different animals for imaging. Rabbits frequently need the head imaged to look for dental disease. He’ll contain the lightly sedated animal in a clear acrylic box surrounded and propped up by towels, which help them feel secure and calm.

“They like to feel like they can lean against something,” he says. “And in the clear acrylic box, it’s safe for the animal–even if they would want to walk off the table they can’t–and we can see the animal, so in case they are struggling we can intervene.”

Containers are also the best approach for aquatic animals, since imaging works through water. “Keeping the animal in the natural environment, like an amphibian or fish in water, is the least stressful, so you can do it and the animal doesn’t even know that something happened.”

Imaging a fish might not be an everyday event, but Mayer says he has done quite a few procedures on valuable fish like koi, such as radiographs to check the swim bladder or look for spine fractures.

“You can leave them in a container and shoot the x-rays through the water, or keep them in a plastic bag. That works really well and that means absolutely no restraint,” he says. “You just have to have a little bit of patience and use a smaller container so they don’t swim constantly left and right. Once they get used to it, you can just take a little time and take the radiograph once the fish is in the right position.”

Reptile Dos and Don’ts

With iguanas and other lizards, Mayer often takes advantage of a simple trick of physiology. “What you can do is put pressure on the eyeball, and that induces the vasovagal response,” he says. The heart rate and blood pressure come down and this calms them. “You don’t need to use drugs and they’re not stressing out because everything in their system is telling them to just relax.”

What you should not use, he says, is artificial cooling. “People say, ‘Just put them in the refrigerator and chill them down and they don’t move,” he says. “We don’t advocate this as an appropriate way to deal with these animals.”

It’s a misconception that that would be similar to what a reptile or amphibian would experience in nature. “Hibernation is a more complicated process,” he says. “The animal prepares for that–they stop eating, they empty the GI tract, it’s a gradual thing–they don’t suddenly find themselves in a refrigerator.”

Animals Hide Weakness

For any procedure, Mayer says, remember that all of these animals do feel pain and stress even if it’s not apparent. Not only are we less skilled at reading their signs, they are expert at concealing distress.

“That is hard-wired in them, so with exotics we have to be extra cautious,” he says. “The little dog has no problem limping into the vet clinic and showing that it’s lame, but the rabbit or bird know that if they do that, they’re going to be someone’s dinner.”

Mayer says that in a study testing effectiveness of a pain drug in iguanas, researchers found that behavior was different depending on whether someone was watching. “They noticed that when the iguana knows it’s being watched, it shows significantly less signs of pain, compared to when they used a camera to observe them,” he says. “That’s the prey animal’s instinct, to suppress any signs of weakness.”

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

By Linda Lombardi
When you’re dealing with wildlife, a Fear Free approach means a delicate balance that’s different than when you’re treating domestic animals.

“While you want it to be low stress, they need to maintain some level of intolerance towards humans,” says Kristian Krause, DVM, a Fear Free certified veterinarian at Serrano Animal and Bird Hospital in Lake Forest, California, where they treat wildlife for Orange County Bird of Prey Center.

Wild animals are stressed by the presence of people in a way that domestic animals aren’t, but if they get too acclimated, that’s going to be a problem once they’re released. “Especially when we’re dealing with something like a raccoon or a bobcat, we don’t want them to think ‘Oh, people are cool, so I can come hang out in a residential area,’” she says.

Keep Them Quiet and Separate

Minimize exposure to humans as much as possible, starting by keeping them in a quiet, isolated environment. Then, Dr. Krause says, maintain a coordinated schedule of husbandry and medical treatment: “Everything happens at once: they’re fed, treated, the cage cleaned, all at once, so you’re not handling them multiple times.”

Make treatment choices with stress control in mind. “Sometimes you have to treat the animal and not the disease,” she says. “It’s more stressful for them to get treatment than to just sit in a quiet cage, so you have to gauge which is the worse of two evils, letting them sit and letting their body heal, or getting them out of the cage twice a day to give them an oral medication or an injection of an anti-inflammatory.”

For some animals, some medications can be administered in a low-stress manner by hiding them in food. Raccoons are such chowhounds that they’re easy to medicate. “If you can put something in a grape, they’re happy,” she says. Carnivores can also be easy. “Chicks and mice are your friends,” she says. “Give them this mouse first so you know they have their medication, then you can give them the next one.”

Handling Tips

When you do need to handle animals, plan for it. “It changes with the animal and the species,” Krause says. “You have to know what you’re doing before you even think about opening that door.”

For instance, handling birds can be a challenge for new staff. “It takes a while to understand how to quickly and efficiently get a bird out of a cage,” she says. Knowing what the plan is and being quick is critical. “You have to go in, grab, and be done so that bird’s not jumping all over the place and you do more harm than good.”

It’s also important to know your species. Take Cooper’s hawks, Krause says. “You barely open the door and they start bouncing off the walls, like a kid who’s had too much candy at Halloween.”

And like domestic animals, wild animals differ in temperament, so Krause likes to have the same people consistently handling the same individuals, so they know how that particular animal tends to react.

Familiarity with species’ needs is also important for treatment and husbandry. Improper temperatures are a major source of stress for reptiles.

“The knee-jerk reaction is, ‘It’s a reptile; they all need to be warm,’ but that’s not necessarily true,” she says. “Putting a chameleon in an 85-degree tank is going to stress them.”

Pain Relief and Sedation

It’s also common for people to not consider that reptiles feel pain, since they might not express it in ways that we recognize. While they often don’t need to be sedated for basic handling or simple procedures, she says, “If they have a fishhook or an abscess, you do need to sedate them or use a local anesthesia; you need to remember that it’s painful so no different than working on a cat or dog.”

Sedation has its own risks, so that’s another delicate balance to maintain. While many procedures that could be done awake on a domestic animal will require anesthesia for wildlife, there are ways to minimize its use. Simply covering eyes and plugging ears with cotton to minimize sight and sound will calm many animals enough for an exam and assessment without the risk of anesthesia and eliminates the stress of being with humans longer while recovering from it.

Krause uses this technique with deer, rabbits, and even coyotes, and says it’s possible to administer some basic treatments this way, such as fluids and antibiotics. This is possible partly because in these animals the reaction is to shut down, which isn’t entirely a low-stress situation, but for a wild animal it can be better than the alternative, she says.

“Now I don’t have to keep you in the hospital for another day because I had to anesthetize you, so I can get you back out where you belong faster, which to me is less stressful.”

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.