kittens Archives - Fear Free

Why FeLV and FIV Don’t Have to Be Death Sentences for Cats

By Kim Campbell ThorntonTwo infectious retroviral diseases are often thought of as a death sentence for cats, but they don’t have to be. One is feline leukemia virus, and the other is feline immunodeficiency virus.

Apprehension about transmission and preconceptions about how they can affect a cat’s quality of life or adoption potential often leads to routine euthanasia for shelter cats who test positive for either disease. And some veterinarians may recommend against adopting a cat with FeLV or FIV particularly if clients have other cats in the household.

Life-saving protocols and good guidelines for adopters make those concerns outmoded, however. Cats with FeLV or FIV can live normal lives without being a hazard to other cats. With preventive healthcare strategies and prompt identification and treatment of illness, both diseases can be managed effectively and their spread limited. Moreover, the Association of Shelter Veterinarians and the American Association of Feline Practitioners do not support euthanasia based solely on a cat’s infection status.

FeLV

Approximately three to four percent of cats in the United States test positive each year for feline leukemia virus, according to the 2020 AAFP Feline Retrovirus Testing and Management Guidelines. The diagnosis affects an estimated 60,000 cats in animal shelters annually.

It’s important to know that the disease, which suppresses a cat’s immune system, does not run a straight course, says Julie Levy, DVM, PhD, DACVIM, DABVP (Shelter Medicine). It affects different cats in different ways and at different times. Levels may change over time depending on a cat’s immune status. Some cats live with the disease with little problem. It may flare up if the cat is stressed or has a comorbidity such as an upper respiratory infection and then subside. It’s not possible to run a test once and then expect the cat to remain the same throughout life.

More important, people are willing to adopt cats with FeLV and give them the care they need.

There is a high national demand for a lifesaving option for cats diagnosed with FeLV, and more and more shelters are working to place FeLV-positive cats in homes. Programs include Chicago’s Tree House Humane Society, Philadelphia Animal Welfare Society, Operation Kindness in Carrollton, Texas, and Austin Pets Alive!

A cat with FeLV can live for many years without illness and without spreading the disease to other cats if they are adopted into single-cat homes or with other FeLV+ cats. This has made a difference for cats in several ways. One is that recommended options for testing have been pared down to a small menu of the most accurate and cost-effective tests. A long-running study has allowed researchers to determine the most reliable tests as well as to evaluate how the status of cats with the disease changes over time. Using a new quantitative PCR test, shelters can now identify whether a tested cat is likely to be a long-term survivor or develop disease and mortality early.

Preventing FeLV

The advisory panel of the AAFP recommends that kittens be vaccinated for FeLV starting as early as 8 weeks of age with two vaccines given three to four weeks apart and then boosted when they are a year old. Vaccination of cats for FeLV during kittenhood, followed by a single booster vaccination at one year of age, is the best way to prevent spread of the disease and reduce its incidence.

While it does not consider FeLV a core vaccine for adult cats, the AAFP recommends that adult cats should be vaccinated annually for FeLV if they are at risk. Risk factors include spending time outdoors, living with cats known to be infected with FeLV, or interacting with cats of unknown disease status.

Ask clients or adopters about the lifestyle and vaccination status of other cats in the home. While vaccination doesn’t help cats already infected with FeLV, it is important for uninfected cats who may have access to the outdoors or potential contact with infected cats. It’s not uncommon for indoor cats to accidentally get out of the house or to experience a change in lifestyle leading to time spent outdoors on a regular or full-time basis.

Elanco’s range of vaccines against FeLV are designed to give feline patients a more comfortable vaccine experience. The ½ mL vaccine—containing half the volume of traditional 1 mL vaccines decreases administration time, increasing the comfort of the vaccination. It is also highly purified, using PureFil technology, designed to reduce adverse reactions associated with extraneous proteins and cellular debris. The vaccine line is available in a variety of combinations, including the only 1/2mL FVRCP+FeLV vaccine, to reduce the number of injections that may be needed.

FIV

Along with FeLV, feline immunodeficiency virus is one of the most common causes of infectious disease in cats worldwide. Cats typically acquire FIV through bite wounds when they fight with FIV-infected cats. A cat’s FIV status should be determined at the time of adoption or if the cat later becomes ill or has any risk of exposure.

But an FIV-positive test does not make a cat unadoptable. While the possibility of transmission is there, exposure to an infected cat is not as risky to uninfected cats as previously thought. FIV-positive cats living amicably with disease-free cats do not appear to pass on the disease. Nor do FIV-positive queens pass on the disease to their kittens. Casual contact, such as allogrooming or sharing water bowls, has not been found to be a common or efficient route of transmission. And while FIV is contagious among cats, it’s not transmissible to humans.

FIV infection can have three phases: acute, asymptomatic, and progressive. In the acute phase, occurring one to three months after infection, cats may have mild signs or no signs. It is followed by an asymptomatic, or latent, phase, which can continue for months or years. They may or may not progress to symptomatic disease.

With good care, some infected cats can live for many years with good quality of life. Some cats show no signs at all, although they remain infectious. However, because FIV affects the immune system, cats with the disease can be more prone to respiratory, dental, eye, or skin infections. Other signs associated with FIV include fever, lethargy, chronic diarrhea, and weight loss.

Clients or adopters caring for cats with FIV should protect them from injuries or wounds that could lead to secondary bacterial infections, as well as from other viruses and parasites that could cause illness. Best management practice is for these cats to live indoors, where they are protected from exposure to potential injuries and infections and prevented from spreading the disease to other cats.

A vaccination for FIV is not commercially available in the U. S., nor is it recommended by any veterinary organizations or schools of veterinary medicine. Its use can complicate diagnosis of FIV infections. Vaccinated cats produce antibodies indistinguishable from antibodies induced by natural infection, making test results unclear if a cat’s vaccination history is unknown. Cats vaccinated for FIV should have a microchip or tag indicating their vaccination status.

The bottom line is that cats with FeLV or FIV are often young, healthy in the moment, enjoying life, and can make great companions. With good care protocols, they can live happy lives with people and other cats.

Click-thru URLS

Fear Free https://fearfreepets.com/

Blog https://fearfreepets.com/blog/

Elanco Animal Health https://www.elanco.us/

American Association of Feline Practitioners 2020 AAFP Feline Retrovirus Testing and Management Guidelines (sagepub.com)

This post is brought to you by our sponsor, Elanco, the maker of TruFel Ultra Vaccines.

TruFel, Ultra, Purefil, Elanco, and the diagonal bar logo are trademarks of Elanco or its affiliates.

From Hiss to Kiss: Feral Kitten Clicker Training

Nancy PetersonClicker training is a simple and fun way to replace unwanted behaviors in frightened kittens with new, desirable behaviors. A tool called a clicker is used. If the sound of the clicker frightens the kitten, a quieter, retractable ballpoint pen can be used. Here’s how it works.

A kitten hisses as you approach the cage. Wait until she stops hissing, click and toss in a treat as close to her as possible, and quietly step back. It shouldn’t take long for her to realize that she gets two rewards when she’s not hissing: a treat and the scary person steps back.

Even if the kitten doesn’t eat the treat, she’s learning. If she eats, repeat your approach, click, treat and back away for two or three more times. If she doesn’t eat after the first few clicks, come back later and try again. Paws up if she ate the treats while you were gone. If she left the treats, carefully remove them and try again the next day with better treats.

What Makes Clicker Training So Effective?

The click lets you capture the exact moment that is being rewarded, and the kitten will make the association between her action and the click and treat. Once the desired behavior is learned, the kitten will let you approach without a click or treat.

Clicker training puts the kitten in control. She chooses to repeat the behavior because she understands that something positive will follow. In a shelter where she may feel like she has lost all control, this is powerful.

You might wonder why clicking is preferable to a “yes” or “good” to mark the behavior. It’s because the kitten will only hear the clicker sound during training, whereas “good” or “yes” are words she’ll hear in other situations. This can confuse her, and the words may lose their meaningfulness. In addition, people’s speech varies, but the sound of the clicker is consistent.

How Else Can Clicker Training Be Used?

When you’re clicker training, you may “catch” the kitten doing something you want repeated. For example, if your goal is for her to come to the front of the crate, click and toss in a treat if she takes even one step toward the front.

As the kitten begins accepting the click-and-treat game, up the ante by putting the treat nearer to the front of the crate. Step back and let the kitten finish the treat. Then, stand still and watch for any movement toward the front of the crate. Click exactly during that movement, give the treat, and step back. The kitten is learning that she can make you click and treat if she moves toward the front of the crate. Once she understands that a step toward the front of the crate is rewarded, wait for her to take two steps before clicking and treating.

When a behavior is understood, give it a name, or cue, such as “Come.” Once the cue is learned, it’s not necessary to click, and rewards can be given less frequently.

How Long Should a Clicker Training Session Last?

Sessions that are five minutes or shorter and more frequent will be more effective than longer, less frequent sessions. Keeping a training log may be helpful to monitor the kitten’s progress and, if you’re working with more than one kitten, reduce confusion on your part.

What Treat and When?

Pick a time when the kitten is hungry and a treat that is pea-size (you can break up a larger treat) and soft so the kitten can eat it quickly. That way she remembers why she got the treat and is more likely to repeat the behavior.

What’s a Target Stick and How Is It Used?

A target stick can be a plastic spoon (easy to disinfect) with a long handle. The goal is to get the kitten to touch her nose to the end of the handle, which you place near the crate door. Hold the spoon end and the clicker in the same hand. (When the clicker is held in the same hand as the spoon, the noise it makes can seem loud to a kitten. If the kitten is frightened by the noise, switch the clicker to the other hand so it’s farther away.)

If the kitten is scared by the handle, smear tasty canned food on the end. The moment she moves toward it, even if she just turns her face to it, click, remove the spoon and toss in a treat. The moment she finishes the treat, offer the handle again. If she doesn’t make any movement, place the handle an inch or two in front of her. Click and treat when she touches the handle with her nose.

Once she reliably touches the handle, offer it to her at a slight distance, so she has to move toward it. Are we having fun yet? Let the kitten absorb the experience, and train again in a few hours or the next day.

What’s the Best Way to Use the Target Stick?

Once the kitten is eagerly touching the target stick, raise the bar by getting her to follow the stick back and forth across the tabletop or onto your lap.

Do Kittens Need to Be Separated for Clicker Training?

Because they learn from one another, it can be beneficial to initially keep kittens together in their crate and train them together. A more frightened kitten may see her bolder littermate getting treats and decide you’re not so bad after all. On the other hand, it may incite aggression between kittens so observe carefully to determine whether to train them together or separately.

Clicker training is fun. It can be used to teach many practical behaviors, such as come, or tricks, such as “high five.” Practice clicker training with your personal pets to help you get the hang of it so you can effectively socialize frightened furballs. You’ll increase their chances of adoption into a forever home, and that’s worth lots of clicks and treats!

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Nancy Peterson worked as a registered veterinary technician, trainer of dogs for people with disabilities other than blindness, and was Community Cats Program Manager for The Humane Society of the United States. She retired in 2015 and currently serves on the boards of Neighborhood Cats and The National Kitten Coalition. Nancy volunteers as a foster and cat cuddler for her local animal shelter, Colorado Animal Rescue (CARE). During COVID, she became an avid birder and is working to protect cats and birds by building bridges between cat and bird advocates.

Resources

“Getting Started: Clicker Training for Cats,” by Karen Pryor

“Fearful Kitten Socialization 101”

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/590a7f1303596e669d422f5d/t/5ed50c3595645801a7a41f3e/1591020601625/Fearful+Kitten+Socialization+101.pdf

From Hiss to Kiss: Feral Kitten Socialization

Nancy PetersonSocialization prepares kittens to interact and be comfortable with people, other animals, objects, environments and activities. It can be very rewarding to turn hissing kittens into purring furballs.

However, when there are so many kittens who need homes, socializing those with the best chance of being adopted is important. Generally, the younger the kittens, the quicker they’ll socialize.

Kitten socialization can take from two to six weeks, depending on their age, personality inherited from their mother, friendliness inherited from their father and their early socialization experiences.

Although feral kittens can be weaned at 4 weeks of age, they have the best chance of survival with their healthy mom. For that reason, trap mom and her kittens when they’re 6 weeks old.

At that age, the kittens are still within the primary socialization window, from 2 to 7 weeks of age, when It’s easiest to socialize them. That said, older kittens may still come around since individuals develop at different rates.

Generally, feral kittens older than 16 weeks should be spayed/neutered, vaccinated, ear tipped (the universal sign of a spayed/neutered cat) and returned to their colony. That frees up cage space and staff time for younger kittens.

Housing the family apart from the general kitten population may be impractical, but options exist. Use a quiet one- or two-person office, which allows the family to become comfortable in an indoor environment and daily human activities.

Place a large wire crate with small openings (so kitten body parts don’t get stuck) on a table in the office. Include a hiding box, facing away from the front of the crate, in the crate. Cover the crate with a lightweight sheet that you retract as the family grows more secure.

Food is one of the best tools for socializing kittens. Kitten kibble should always be available, but toss in small, tasty morsels when you approach the crate so kittens and mom look forward to your presence.

When you feed wet food, first place the bowls toward the back of the crate; stay nearby when you provide wet food and treats to help create trust and positive associations with you. Move closer to the crate each time you feed. Then move the bowls closer and closer to the front of the crate and remain close.

If after three days, mom is still highly stressed and charges you when you approach the crate, spay, vaccinate, deworm, ear tip, and return her to her colony.

Older kittens who have learned to swat and bite and continue doing so 1 and a half weeks after removing mom should be spayed, vaccinated, ear tipped, and returned to their colony.

If the kittens are only hissing and spitting, carry on. However, if one isn’t coming around, house him in another location and work with him individually. You can return him to his siblings once he has progressed.

When they’re eating wet food at the front of the crate, try “petting” kittens on their face and chin with a toothbrush through the crate. Offer your bent forefinger through the crate near their bowl and see if they rub against it.

Don’t offer food on your finger or allow kittens to play with your hand. They may accidentally bite or scratch you, teaching them it’s okay to bite and scratch.

Since most feral kittens are initially frightened by interactive toys, start with one that isn’t too threatening, such as a wand toy, that allows you to play with them from a distance through the crate. Aim for small sessions, while talking on the phone or attending an online webinar, for a total of two hours a day.

Once the kittens allow you to touch them through the crate, try the following while they’re eating in the crate, but not after playing with them as they’ll be too worked up.

Rest your hand in the crate.
Put light pressure on their sides and gently move them from one food bowl to another.
Put gentle pressure on their underside in preparation to being picked up.
Lift them slightly, facing away from you, with both hands. Gradually lift them a bit longer and higher.

If there’s no struggling or tension, move one kitten at a time out the door; then quickly return him to the crate. Progress until you can lift the kitten out of the crate to a dish of food placed just beyond the door. If the kitten runs back into the crate, leave the crate door open and see if he ventures out on his own.

Once they’re comfortable outside the crate, briefly cuddle each kitten close to your body so they feel your warmth and heartbeat. When kittens are relaxed being held, cuddle them often. Once they seek your company, have other people provide treats and petting in preparation for the kittens’ adoption into a forever home.

If possible, adopt kittens in pairs or into a home with other friendly cats and no young children whose erratic movements and loud voices would be scary. Inform potential adopters that the kittens were feral and provide adopters with the resources listed at the end of this article so they understand the importance of socialization.

As with all new pets, adopted kittens should initially be confined to a kitten-proofed room with food, water, litter box, bed and toys. Hiding is normal and kittens shouldn’t be grabbed and dragged out. They can be lured with a toy onto their adopter’s lap.

Giving kittens time to adjust by talking, playing, petting and offering special treats will build trust and create a lasting bond.

Resources:

http://torontoferalcatcoalition.ca/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/10-the_behaviour_dept_taming_feral_cats.pdf

https://marketplace.animalsheltering.org/magazine/articles/kitty-their-hands\

https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/animal-emotions/202003/the-cat-human-relationship-and-factors-affect-it

https://catvets.com/public/PDFs/PracticeGuidelines/FelineBehaviorGLS.pdf

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Nancy Peterson worked as a registered veterinary technician, trainer of dogs for people with disabilities other than blindness, and was Community Cats Program Manager for The Humane Society of the United States. She retired in 2015 and currently serves on the boards of Neighborhood Cats and The National Kitten Coalition. Nancy volunteers as a foster and cat cuddler for her local animal shelter, Colorado Animal Rescue (CARE). During COVID, she became an avid birder and is working to protect cats and birds by building bridges between cat and bird advocates.

Kitten Socialization: Creating the Purrfect Feline Patient and Pet

Rachel Lees RVT, KPA CTP, VTS (Behavior)

As veterinary professionals, wouldn’t we all love ways to keep our clients and feline patients happy, healthy, and even make our jobs safer? Let’s scratch the surface of the basics of kitten socialization, the benefits of kitten socialization classes, and how we can start these courses in our own practices.

Who doesn’t love a sweet, fluffy, and cuddly kitten? But they don’t become that way on their own. Veterinary team members and owners have long recognized the importance of puppy socialization and training classes, and these same tactics can be used for kittens as well. That’s right! Socialization is just as important for kittens as it is for puppies. It’s important for humans, too. Here’s why.

Educating Owners and Staff

As veterinary professionals, we have only a certain amount of time to discuss these things with new kitten owners during appointments. An educated veterinary team is key to starting kittens off on the right track to enjoy handling, being placed in their carriers, and be more comfortable with husbandry care at home.

These things are beneficial for the veterinary team as well. Revenue increases because cats are more compliant about being brought to the veterinary hospital, and everyone is safer because fewer patients display fear, anxiety, or stress. Implementing and recommending these classes in a practice can also increase revenue as a new service and be a way to bond kittens and owners to the practice.

Socialization Timeline

Knowing and acknowledging the kitten socialization period is critical in setting up new owners and kittens for success. For kittens, the socialization period starts at 2 weeks and ends at 7 to 10 weeks. This is the time when kittens begin to become less reliant on the queen for survival and have increased interaction with social and environmental stimuli. It’s the most important sensitive period in feline development and can help to prime felines to live safely and comfortably in human households. Positive social experiences in kittenhood with other species and stimuli are hugely beneficial in creating behaviorally healthy adult cats.

You may be thinking that kittens do not come into the practice until after this developmental period has passed and you are correct! Kittens may not come into our practices until they are 8 to 10 weeks old. Kitten classes can still be beneficial because the socialization window does not slam shut. It closes slowly, so these classes can be beneficial for kittens up to 14 weeks of age.

Kitten Classes

Kitten Kindergarten or Kitten Kindy was brought to the forefront by veterinary behaviorist Kersti Seksel, VBSc (Hons), MRCVS, MA (Hons), FACVSc, DACVB, DECAWBM of Australia. The classes have the following goals:

Socialize kittens
Educate owners about normal feline behavior
Teach owners how to interact and play with their kittens
Train kittens to accept handling procedures
Identify any problem behaviors and provide up-to-date, humane, and scientific advice
Educate owners on all aspects of kitten development, pet care, and living with a cat in the family

I structure and run kitten classes as follows:

Interaction with other pet owners and felines of the same age range (with appropriate health and vaccination requirements)
Provide different surfaces, textures, objects, and sounds for the kittens to experience during exploratory time
Discuss and demonstrate carrier training using marker training
Review the following focus points to set the new kitten owners up for success:
- Litter Box Basics
- Socialization Period
  - Fear Free has a fantastic Kitten Socialization Bingo Worksheet in the Toolbox. I have used something similar in the past and given prizes for owners who get the “Bingo” or successfully socialize their kittens to many positive things from week to week.
- Scratching and playing
- Handling and administering medications

Courses can be offered weekly in a rotational style to get as many kittens into the class as possible, monthly as a kitten party, or in a weekly 3-week course. The possibilities are endless!

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Rachel Lees, a Level 3 Fear Free Certified Professional, is a veterinary technician specialist in behavior, a KPA certified training partner, and lead veterinary behavior technician at The Behavior Clinic in Olmsted Falls, Ohio. She loves helping people create and maintain a strong human-animal bond and has a special interest in kitten and puppy socialization and development.