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Fear Free Shelters: Dog Housing Basics

Heather E. LewisAnyone who works in a shelter can agree that it is difficult to create an environment for dogs that helps them relax! Dogs want to be in homes, not in the shelter, so it can be a tricky problem.

What can we do with housing to create the best possible Fear Free temporary home? Here are some tried-and-true dog housing basics for a Fear Free shelter experience.

Double-Sided Housing

This gives dogs access to two different compartments, usually separated by a small door. This arrangement is useful for three reasons:

  • It is easier to clean the run. While it is important to get the dogs out for exercise, a minor spot clean can be easily accomplished with the dog in the other compartment, which leaves more hours available for meaningful enrichment time. (Note: be cautious of major hose cleaning while a dog is on the other side of a guillotine door as the sound of the hose can be stressful for some dogs.)
  • The dog has a separate clean side and bathroom side. While it is best to take dogs outside for potty breaks, some dogs cannot make it for long hours without a bathroom break and it is extremely stressful for many dogs to have to soil their living areas. If given the chance, most dogs will choose to eliminate away from where they sleep and eat.
  • The dog has more space. In shelters, we are often guilty of providing dogs far too little space. Some shelters have double-compartment housing, but they drop their guillotine doors to house more dogs. Unfortunately, this creates more stress for each individual dog, and works against positive outcomes.

Right Size the Housing

What is the right amount of space? It is hard to tell because many dog housing minimum requirements contradict each other. Here are the rules of thumb we follow:

  • The dog should not touch the sides of the enclosure when moving normally. Happy tail is not happy at all! A dog should wag his tail without hitting it against the run walls. Many runs are too narrow. A five-foot minimum works much better than a typical four-foot-wide run.
  • The enclosure should allow for choices. If a bed takes up too much room in the run,  the dog will not have a choice about whether to lie on the bed or the floor. This is not a good situation, as dogs prefer to have options. Thus, the run should be large enough to allow for a bed, food, water, and an open, unrestricted floor space.
  • A variety of housing sizes is desirable. Very large dogs and bonded pairs will benefit from oversize or double runs. You can retrofit existing runs with side-to-side openings to allow for this possibility, or simply remove a run panel or two to allow for a few extra-large runs. On the other hand, very small dogs can feel vulnerable and frightened when housed in very large runs. Create a few smaller double-compartment runs or cages with puppy portals for very small dogs who prefer a smaller space, away from the big dogs.

Inside/Outside Is Best

Inside/outside housing has gone in and out of vogue, but it is now considered to be the preferred standard. When given the choice, dogs will appreciate the fresh air and will spend time outside whenever the weather is nice. If you use indoor/outdoor housing, remember these tips:

  • Upsize the inside portion of the run so the dog is still in a humanely sized space when the guillotine is closed, such as overnight.
  • Consider local weather when orienting the outside portion. East and south are some of our favorite orientations, while north is often too cold or windy and west is often too hot.
  • Weatherproof the guillotine door opening with a second weather door such as a saloon-style door.

Properly designed basic dog housing can help support your behavior, health, and adoption programs. It reduces fear, anxiety, and stress, thereby assisting dogs in finding their forever homes.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB, is a principal of Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities, including veterinary hospitals and animal shelters, for more than three decades.  She has worked on dozens of projects across the country, both large and small in her 19 years with the firm.  Heather is a member of the Fear Free℠ Advisory Board and assisted in creating the Fear Free facility standards for veterinary hospitals.  Heather is a regular contributor to various veterinary industry magazines.  She has spoken on the design of facilities for the care of animals at dozens of national and regional conferences including Fetch Hospital Design Conferences, the UC Davis Low Stress Animal Handling Conference, and the Humane Society of the United States Animal Care Expo.
 

Fear Free Shelters: Why Natural Lighting Is Important

Heather E. LewisAs we have learned this year during the pandemic, outdoor spaces are healthier for people than indoor spaces. It isn’t just ventilation that is better outside; daylight provides physiological benefits for people and animals that artificial lighting will never replace.

For dogs in shelters, the best you can do for their welfare is to get them outside for enrichment. This must be emphasized before we talk about improving indoor spaces, as even the best indoor space cannot replace outdoor time. Nevertheless, bringing natural daylight into the shelter has benefits for all animals, including homo sapiens.

Reinforcing Circadian Rhythms

Circadian rhythms are the hormonal and physiological cycles our bodies go through, day and night. They tie to our general health, our quality of sleep, and our patterns of eating and resting. Circadian rhythms are also important for reinforcing seasonal patterns such as the growth of winter haircoats.

    • Bringing daylight into shelters and allowing dogs and cats indoor/outdoor spaces helps them maintain crucial biological cycles throughout their stay. Circadian rhythm regulation is particularly important for animals who must stay longer in care; for example, dogs with medical conditions requiring continued care.
    • As one example of the importance of circadian rhythms, human hospital patients with disrupted day/night cycles suffered poorer cognitive functions, had delirium in greater frequency, and recovered more slowly than they would have without these disruptions.

Boosting Morale for Staff

Animals in the shelter pick up on the morale of staff and volunteers. Sheltered animals are often fearful, and one way we can reduce fear is to provide compassionate and gentle care. Lack of natural daylight in human workplaces contributes to stress, fatigue, anxiety, and depression-related illnesses such as SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder) and makes compassionate care more challenging. Bringing daylight into the building counteracts these effects and helps support a healthier, more upbeat work environment, which is better for the well-being of all.

Unfortunately, many shelters, especially older ones, are constructed with few windows and little natural daylight. However, there are ways to add natural lighting without huge expense. Here are a few tips:

  • Construct inexpensive outdoor spaces such as catios, dog exercise yards, and a covered patio or pretty garden pergola where staff can relax and take their lunch or breaks. These are easy to get donations for (relatively speaking), or they can be built on weekends by handy volunteers.
  • Consider adding “Solatubes,” which are tubular skylights. These introduce daylight from roofs down to the ceiling, and work even in structures that are high overhead. They are relatively easy to install, and they are not as prone to leaking as traditional skylights.
  • Speaking of which, we have been to several shelters that used to have skylights but covered them when they leaked. Uncover your old skylights and put the effort into fixing them – it is worth it!
  • Swap out solid doors for glass doors. Adding a glass door adds daylight with very little effort. If you’re worried about security, put an alarm on the door and frost the glass – the soft daylight coming in will be worth the risk of the glass, in most cases.
  • Add windows. Windows can be harder to add because this involves cutting holes in an outside wall, so add them where they would provide the most benefit. For example, if you have a cat isolation room on a blank outside wall, adding a window will vastly improve the wellbeing of the cats housed in that room while being treated. If you do go to the trouble of adding a window, put a heavy-duty screen on it and design the window to be operable. That way it can be open in nice weather, which provides even more benefit.

Don’t settle for a lightless bunker. It’s not good for you and it’s not good for the animals. As we head into the dark of winter, look for fundable opportunities to get animals and staff outside, as well as for ways to bring daylight in. Everyone will be happier and healthier!

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB, is a principal of Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities, including veterinary hospitals and animal shelters, for more than three decades.  She has worked on dozens of projects across the country, both large and small in her 19 years with the firm.  Heather is a member of the Fear Free℠ Advisory Board and assisted in creating the Fear Free facility standards for veterinary hospitals.  Heather is a regular contributor to various veterinary industry magazines.  She has spoken on the design of facilities for the care of animals at dozens of national and regional conferences including Fetch Hospital Design Conferences, the UC Davis Low Stress Animal Handling Conference, and the Humane Society of the United States Animal Care Expo.
 

Fear Free Shelters: Lower Stress for Dogs Via Play

Heather E. LewisHealthy play is necessary for the wellbeing of all animals, including humans! For sheltered dogs, play has become increasingly important for many reasons:

  • We are more aware of the need to provide quality enrichment to sheltered animals.
  • Shelters are providing more behavioral care for dogs.
  • Play reduces fear, anxiety, and stress.
  • Play helps dogs feel more comfortable in the shelter environment.

We love designing for play. There are many small design nuances but here are some basic highlights:

  • Play Group Space. Play groups must be set up with the support of staff and volunteers, with proper training, as well as within the proper environment. Ideally, play groups will have the following:
    • A series of interconnected yards (rather than one large yard) to customize play groups based on dogs’ sizes and size needs.
    • Visual barriers between yards and kennels.
    • Double-gated entrances for safety.
    • Access to water via kiddie pools for the dogs to cool off and to provide a large water source that is less likely to be guarded.
    • Shading and reasonable surfaces are important as well. K9Grass (a brand of faux grass) is our favorite, but only if it is installed correctly so that it drains and does not collect water. It also needs to be shaded or it can get too hot for paws.
    • Safe fencing that keeps dogs contained without risk of escape.
  • Water Play. Water play works well for dogs who enjoy play groups and for those who do not. We have started incorporating splash parks for sheltered dogs (see photo). It is spectacular to witness a formerly fearful sheltered dog interacting playfully with water. Splash park plans must be created by people who know how to design for dogs, as they have different types of plumbing, surfacing, and play structures than those designed for children. When we design a splash park, we consider the following:
    • Incorporate additional space around the water feature so the dogs can go in and out of the water. This enhances choice.
    • Safe surfacing is critical. Our favorite is a soft, grip-textured surface designed for dogs.
    • The water itself should be safe. It is not recirculated, so it is best to have the water provide watering to landscaping once it has been used in park fountains.
  • Individual Play Spaces. We know that some dogs do better with one-on-one time than they do in groups, and we know that water features cannot be used during cold winters. Therefore, do not forget to provide these spaces for your sheltered dogs:
    • Walking Paths. These should be loop type with multiple forks along the loop, so that dogs do not have to pass each other side to side. Good walks provide exercise, connection, and some Fear Free training opportunities.
    • Ball Throwing Areas. We like to provide a larger yard (60’ long minimum) for flying disc or ball throwing.
    • Small (20×20, for example), more fully enclosed yards. These are great for gentle socializing with fearful dogs who may retreat in large yards, or for adoption meet and greet.

As we continue to improve the Fear Free shelter, dedicated play areas are a critical part of the design. It is best to designate outdoor areas for play so everyone gets fresh air, but if your shelter is land constrained, or in an urban location, playrooms can be indoor if necessary.

Regardless of your resources, find ways to incorporate play. For a dog, and especially one who is fearful, play is an important and often shorter path to happiness and comfort, as well as to finding the right forever home.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB, is a principal of Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities, including veterinary hospitals and animal shelters, for more than three decades.  She has worked on dozens of projects across the country, both large and small in her 19 years with the firm.  Heather is a member of the Fear Free℠ Advisory Board and assisted in creating the Fear Free facility standards for veterinary hospitals.  Heather is a regular contributor to various veterinary industry magazines.  She has spoken on the design of facilities for the care of animals at dozens of national and regional conferences including Fetch Hospital Design Conferences, the UC Davis Low Stress Animal Handling Conference, and the Humane Society of the United States Animal Care Expo.
Photo courtesy Humane Society of Southwest Missouri

Color Me Fear Free

Heather E. LewisThe way people interpret color is tied strongly to human culture and language. For example, feeling blue means feeling sad, and seeing red means feeling angry, at least in Western, English-speaking cultures.  But how do animals see and respond to color? The answers are few, as there is little research in this field of study. We can say that dogs and cats see a narrower range of colors than we do. This is because they have traded color vision, biologically speaking, for superior vision at night. Indeed, dogs and cats see much better at night than people do.

Cats have trichromatic vision, just like humans, but they do not see the red end of the human visible spectrum. Dogs have dichromatic vision, which means they do not see anything in the orange and red range in the human visible spectrum. Both species see slightly into the ultraviolet range. This is fascinating as it means that any material that has phosphorous in it, or a whitening or brightening agent derived from phosphorous, will fluoresce slightly under their vision. For example, a piece of paper is a glowing white object to a cat.

Fear Free color palettes have three objectives relating to the little we do know about animal preferences for color and stress reduction for people and animals alike.

  • To avoid anything bright white that may fluoresce. This is the reason behind abandoning a white doctor coat. People often react with stress to laboratory coats, and this is called “white coat syndrome.” If we are trying to create a low-stress medical experience for animals, it is likely best to dress veterinary doctors in colors that do not stand out. Thus, Fear Free practitioners prefer softer colors for coats and scrubs. Architects should also check the building materials we are using in hospital spaces and avoid materials that fluoresce. You can test for this by using a Woods Lamp (a black light used in the veterinary and human healthcare industries for detecting ringworm), in a space with the lights turned off. The lamp will identify materials that fluoresce.
  • To use colors that animals can see well, particularly in low-light conditions. If you were to paint a dog or cat medical ward dark red, and have dim lighting in that space, the space would appear dark grey and shadowy to the animals. A lighter space, painted in hues and tones that are brighter and more toward the blue end of the spectrum, will be more visually understandable to the animals. There is very little research on this idea, but one example is a study in mice, who see similarly to dogs and cats. The study indicated that mice “showed clear and consistent individual preferences for cages when offered a choice between white, black, green and red cages. Overall, most mice preferred white cages, then black or green, and red was the least preferred.”[i]
  • To use colors that are relaxing to people. Think of a spa, and the colors that are used in a spa, which are often toward the bluer end of the spectrum, or they are nature based. Spa color palettes tend to be relaxing to people and remind them to slow down and move carefully and gently. The research of color on human behavior is well understood; fast food restaurants use reds and oranges because they are NOT relaxing, and they motivate you to move along and finish your food quickly, so the booth may be occupied by the next customer. We want to encourage the opposite behavior.

Do not worry about hard and fast rules about color, as they don’t exist. Quite simply, use color as a reminder to yourself to be more considerate of how our animal friends see, and to support a gentler way of being around dogs and cats, and all the animals you care for.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB, is a principal of Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities, including veterinary hospitals and animal shelters, for more than three decades.  She has worked on dozens of projects across the country, both large and small in her 19 years with the firm.  Heather is a member of the Fear Free℠ Advisory Board and assisted in creating the Fear Free facility standards for veterinary hospitals.  Heather is a regular contributor to various veterinary industry magazines.  She has spoken on the design of facilities for the care of animals at dozens of national and regional conferences including Fetch Hospital Design Conferences, the UC Davis Low Stress Animal Handling Conference, and the Humane Society of the United States Animal Care Expo.

Fear Free Shelters: Noise Control Basics

Heather E. LewisNoise is a notorious problem in shelters. When we reduce noise in shelters, we also moderate factors that cause fear, anxiety, and stress. Controlling noise is both an art and a science. Here are some helpful tips:

  • Create a calm environment and reduce mental stress. Because dogs cause the noise, it is important to ease dogs’ mental stress, so they feel less prone to barking. Regular exercise, outside time, supervised play groups, and walks help them to use their energy in positive ways. Creating feeding, cleaning, and bedtime routines in the shelter whenever possible so dogs know what to expect can also reduce their stress. Limit unpleasant stimulation as much as you can given your means. For example, for some dogs with barrier anxiety, it can be helpful to place a partial barrier on the fronts of their runs, so they have a choice of retreating from visual stimulation. And although it is sound, specially composed calming music may help to relax dogs and promote less barking. When played at low volume, it is meant to create calm rather than to mask noise.
  • Reduce the reverberation. Once you have done everything you can to lower stress through behavioral means, this is when building materials become more effective. Your best place for noise reduction is the ceiling! Choose a ceiling material with a high Noise Reduction Coefficient (NRC). The material should also be cleanable and antimicrobial. This is not impossible, as ceiling materials have improved. We like the Rockfon Medical Plus ceiling panel. This product achieves an NRC of .9, which means that 90 percent of reverberant noise within a tested frequency range is absorbed by the material.
  • Absorb the sound. In addition to the ceiling, you can place sound-absorbing panels high on the wall to reduce noise in the space. Please note that these sound panels are not enough on their own; they must be paired with the ceiling. Choose a panel with a high NRC and choose the thickest product offered as this one will absorb noise in a broader frequency range. Sound-absorbing panels do not need to be ugly! We use products that can be printed with a photo or image for a custom look.
  • Contain the noise. Beyond absorbing noise, it is also important to prevent it from affecting other shelter occupants, especially cats. We do this by ensuring that rooms containing dogs also contain the noise. The best way to do this is to build a wall with heavy mass (concrete block, etc.) around the dog housing. You can achieve the same result by layering materials. For example, a stud wall with sound insulation and two layers of drywall on each side will be much better than a stud wall without those materials. Keep in mind that a sound wall is only as good as its weakest point. To design an effective sound wall, do the following:
    • Build the wall up to the structure, so no sound “flanks” over the top of the wall.
    • Seal penetrations through the wall, such as duct and conduit penetrations.
    • Install gasketing around doors into the room, and a sweep on the bottom of the door.
    • If there are windows into the room, provide double glazing in the windows.
  • Separate dogs from other spaces. Despite doing the above, dogs are still loud. We recommend having more than one wall between dogs and cat spaces, or dogs and other quiet spaces such as offices. If the cats are right next to the dogs in your shelter, consider moving them to another room in the building, if possible.
  • Mask the noise. As a last resort, you can use masking noise to make your shelter feel more pleasant. An example of masking noise is soft white noise. While these sounds can be effective, we put this at the bottom of the list to encourage you to truly solve your noise problems first.

Your shelter does not have to be noisy! With a multifaceted and rigorous approach that begins with reduction of mental stress for dogs, you can create a much more peaceful, Fear Free place for animals and people.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB, is a principal of Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities, including veterinary hospitals and animal shelters, for more than three decades.  She has worked on dozens of projects across the country, both large and small in her 19 years with the firm.  Heather is a member of the Fear Free℠ Advisory Board and assisted in creating the Fear Free facility standards for veterinary hospitals.  Heather is a regular contributor to various veterinary industry magazines.  She has spoken on the design of facilities for the care of animals at dozens of national and regional conferences including Fetch Hospital Design Conferences, the UC Davis Low Stress Animal Handling Conference, and the Humane Society of the United States Animal Care Expo.

Set Up the Perfect Exam Room for Cats

Heather E. Lewis
As veterinary practices implement Fear Free design for their patients, it becomes more important to cater specifically to felines. Even if you have a smaller facility, at least one exam room should be properly outfitted to care for cats. Many ideas are easy and inexpensive to implement. Here are some favorite cat exam room ideas:

Room Placement and General Features

  • Choose a room in a quiet spot. Reducing noise, traffic, and activity is a great way to sculpt a quieter and calmer experience for our feline friends. Ensure the walls around the room have sound insulation in them, if possible, to screen noise coming from other spaces.
  • If possible, use a room with a window. Cats see well in low-light conditions. Cats will prefer the room if artificial lights are lowered and the room is flooded with soft natural light. It is useful to have lights on a dimmer switch so they can be brighter for a proper physical exam and then lowered again for client consultation.

Furnishings, Cabinets, and Finishes

  • The exam table should be comfortable. Ensure that your table will have a non-slip surface for cats and that it can be outfitted with something soft. Any exam table is potentially acceptable and can be updated with a yoga mat for slip resistance and a towel for a soft surface. This said, we prefer a smaller table for less awkward maneuvering when working with a cat.
  • Create appropriate retreat spaces. Cats often need to hide to feel comfortable. Avoid designing trash access holes or flaps in cabinets or your feline patients will end up in the trash can! Extend upper cabinets to the ceiling to prevent cats from being able to get into ceiling panels (yikes)! Avoid chairs cats can get underneath; solid-fronted benches work better for seating. Create an appropriate space in the room for retreat, such as a wall-hung basket or a box in an appealing location in the room. The cat can enter this retreat space at will and coaxed out gently or examined there.
  • Choose light colors. We prefer to paint feline exam rooms with lighter colors, so they will function well when the lights are dimmed. However, avoid bright whites as sometimes these appear even brighter to a cat. Calming colors can help reinforce your goal for the room to be a retreat.

Equipment

While equipment may appear to be a small consideration, the right accessories will help your cat exam room become the Fear Free space you envision. Consider the following:

  • Feliway dispensers in the room.
  • A towel warmer to warm blankets and towels for use during examinations.
  • Non-figural artwork and no photorealistic images of cats. Cats can react negatively to this type of visual input. Use soft abstracts and landscapes.
  • Quiet casters on the stool so it does not clatter when rolled.

Feline exam rooms are easy and rewarding to design and finish. We consider cats to be our best architectural students; they tell us when we have executed spaces well. We create for them. Pair good spaces and good operations, and your feline patients will be happier and calmer. Happy patients make for happy clients!

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB, is a principal of Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities, including veterinary hospitals and animal shelters, for more than three decades.  She has worked on dozens of projects across the country, both large and small in her 19 years with the firm.  Heather is a member of the Fear Free℠ Advisory Board and assisted in creating the Fear Free facility standards for veterinary hospitals.  Heather is a regular contributor to various veterinary industry magazines.  She has spoken on the design of facilities for the care of animals at dozens of national and regional conferences including Fetch Hospital Design Conferences, the UC Davis Low Stress Animal Handling Conference, and the Humane Society of the United States Animal Care Expo.
Photo courtesy Loyal Companions Animal Hospital & Pet Resort, Tim Murphy / Foto Imagery.