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How Animal Shelters “Catify” to Benefit Cats and Adopters

Jen ReederFor too long, a common refrain uttered by people thinking of getting a new cat was, “I’d go to a shelter but it’s too sad.”

Fortunately, rescue advocates across America are working to change that perception by creating cat-friendly shelters that offer enrichment along with aesthetically pleasing designs.

Kate Benjamin, coauthor of the bestselling books “Catification” and “Catify to Satisfy,” which she wrote with Animal Planet star Jackson Galaxy, and founder of Hauspanther, a company that helps people and organizations design cat-friendly spaces, said “catifying” shelters benefits cats, caregivers, and potential adopters. The overarching approach is to create a space as inviting as a cat café.

“If you can see a cat being a cat – really climbing and scratching and playing and being a cat, not just hiding in a cage – you can picture that cat in your home,” she said. “You can get to know their personality better.”

Cats can feel stress in an unfamiliar environment such as a shelter, where they might not be able to engage in typical feline behavior like climbing, hiding, and scratching. So Benjamin said a top priority is creating hiding spaces, such as installing wooden, painted boxes on the ground or on walls.

“Hiding spaces have been proven in scientific studies to help reduce stress in cats. It gives them choice and control over their environment,” she said. “This is a great DIY project if a shelter has somebody who has power tools and some woodworking skills.”

She noted hiding spaces can be up high to allow climbing and perching, since cats feel safer with a better view of their surroundings. Other design suggestions include the following:

    • Cat trees and towers. Just be sure they aren’t covered in carpet and are painted and sealed for easy cleaning.
    • Shelves and cat hammocks. Benjamin offers hammock designs that can easily be crafted from fleece by volunteers and hung in boxes or mounted to a climbing wall.
    • Ramps. These are terrific for kittens or senior cats with mobility issues.
    • Benches near cat cubby holes. Potential adopters can sit near the cats and have a better chance for interaction.
    • Thoughtful toy storage. Instead of tossing toys in a pile on the floor, Benjamin suggests creating a storage or display system so a visitor can easily grab a wand toy and play with the cats.
    • Catios. These screened outdoor patios give shelter cats protected time outdoors.
    • Color-themed blankets. Matching blankets can be comfortable for cats and make the space more appealing to potential adopters.

    Benjamin emphasized that shelter staff shouldn’t feel overwhelmed if they don’t have much money or space for renovations. It’s fine to start small.

    “You can just buy $4 shelves and install them properly – make sure all the cracks are sealed,” she says.

    If a shelter only has a closet that’s used for out-of-cage time and meet and greets, she says to avoid just putting a folding chair inside.

    “Maybe you only have $500 to work with. Build a bench, put the litter box underneath it, add some shelves, maybe a piece of art on the wall, a hiding box,” she advises. “Somebody just has to be committed to making that happen.”

    Benjamin credits Kate Hurley, DVM, and her colleagues at the UC Davis Koret Shelter Medicine Program with helping to fuel the “catification” movement through scientific research, as well as cat lovers who work and volunteer in shelters but may have already catified their homes. (Durability and the need for sanitizing are two big differences between residential and shelter catification.)

    Often working with Rescue Rebuild, a program of Greater Good Charities, Benjamin has helped transform cat spaces at shelters like Santé D’Or in Los Angeles, Calif.;  Dumb Friends League in Denver, Colorado; Liberty Humane Society in Jersey City, New Jersey; and the domestic violence shelter Sojourner Center in Phoenix, Ariz., which has a companion animal program.

    Her latest project is Operation Catification, a training program for shelters set to launch in January 2022. Shelter representatives can apply for the 12-week course, which Benjamin will instruct; at the end of the course, some of the final projects will receive grants, and one shelter will win a full makeover with Rescue Rebuild. (Interested animal shelters can email the program coordinator at OperationCatification@GreaterGood.org to be notified as soon as the application period begins.)

    “The idea is to create an environment that brings out the best in cats because it reduces that fear, anxiety and stress, and shows them off in their best light,” Benjamin said. “Catification is mostly environmental enrichment for cats – then it has this extra icing on the cake of being beautiful.”

    This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

    Award-winning journalist Jen Reeder is former president of the Dog Writers Association of America. She hiked over 1,000 miles to fundraise for Blackhat Humane Society on the Navajo Nation using the Walk for a Dog app.
     Photos, top to bottom: Kate Benjamin for Sojourner Center; courtesy Dumb Friends League; Kate Benjamin for Sante D’Or; courtesy Rescue Rebuild for Liberty Humane Society; courtesy Rescue Rebuild for Liberty Humane Society
     
     

Fear Free Pet Sitter Certification Program

Unlike any other pet professional, pet sitters spend an extended period of time with the animals they care for, giving them an intimate and unique glimpse into animals’ home lives. Because of this, pet sitters can readily identify opportunities for improvement and spot emerging behavior concerns, enrichment opportunities, and other areas that might otherwise go unnoticed.

This course will equip pet sitters with a scientifically sound knowledge base in animal body language, dog walking, behavior and training basics, enrichment, home life, travel, administering medications, and more so that they can offer top-level Fear Free care to pets and provide owners with basic support and advice. The Fear Free Certified® pet sitter will be empowered to help educate pet owners on reading dog and cat body language and provide ideas for how enrichment and training can be incorporated into the pet’s environment and routine, promoting not only a calmer pet-sitting stay but also a richer, more fulfilling life. We’ll cover everything from the very first greeting of a pet to creating calmer leash walks to delivering medications in a Fear Free manner and much more!

This course was reviewed by PSI (Pet Sitters International) and NAPPS (National Association of Professional Pet Sitters).

Fear Free Boarding and Daycare (Individual) Certification Program

Boarding and daycare environments are often fraught with potential stressors for dogs and cats. Pets are away from home, their family is gone, unfamiliar people and animals surround them, and their daily sleep/wake schedule is thrown off. But there are several steps you can take, from setting up the environment itself to adjusting the way in which you interact with dogs and cats, that can help reduce stress and increase calm and safety for both pets and staff.

The Fear Free Boarding and Daycare Individual Certification Program will help you ensure you are thoughtful in every interaction with boarding and daycare pets—from greetings to kennel introductions to overexuberance or shyness. You’ll learn what a Fear Free boarding and daycare environment looks like, feels like, sounds like, and smells like. And you’ll get practical advice on what to do in the moment if a dog or cat struggles when you try to give them needed medications or care, drags you into the play yard, or refuses to enter or leave their kennel.

The purchase of the Fear Free Boarding and Daycare Individual Certification Program provides you with a Fear Free membership, which requires an annual renewal fee and completion of additional annual CE to maintain your membership.

The Fear Free Boarding & Daycare Individual Certification Program is a wonderful educational addition to the pet care service industry. Boarding & daycare facilities will immediately see value in this certification program as staff learns to identify and mitigate fear, anxiety, and stress in pets. The pet owner will be assured that their pets are in the care of professionals who are knowledgeable about the physical and emotional needs of each individual pet. Boarding & daycare facilities will be proud to be considered as “best in care” providers as they promote the wellbeing of their staff and the pets in their care. IBPSA is proud to be part of the Fear Free programs. —Carmen Rustenbeck, CEO and Founder, International Boarding & Pet Services Association

This course was reviewed by the IBPSA (International Boarding & Pet Services Association) and PACCC (Professional Animal Care Certification Council).

From Hiss to Kiss: Feral Kitten Clicker Training

Nancy PetersonClicker training is a simple and fun way to replace unwanted behaviors in frightened kittens with new, desirable behaviors. A tool called a clicker is used. If the sound of the clicker frightens the kitten, a quieter, retractable ballpoint pen can be used. Here’s how it works.

A kitten hisses as you approach the cage. Wait until she stops hissing, click and toss in a treat as close to her as possible, and quietly step back. It shouldn’t take long for her to realize that she gets two rewards when she’s not hissing: a treat and the scary person steps back.

Even if the kitten doesn’t eat the treat, she’s learning. If she eats, repeat your approach, click, treat and back away for two or three more times. If she doesn’t eat after the first few clicks, come back later and try again. Paws up if she ate the treats while you were gone. If she left the treats, carefully remove them and try again the next day with better treats.

What Makes Clicker Training So Effective?

The click lets you capture the exact moment that is being rewarded, and the kitten will make the association between her action and the click and treat. Once the desired behavior is learned, the kitten will let you approach without a click or treat.

Clicker training puts the kitten in control. She chooses to repeat the behavior because she understands that something positive will follow. In a shelter where she may feel like she has lost all control, this is powerful.

You might wonder why clicking is preferable to a “yes” or “good” to mark the behavior. It’s because the kitten will only hear the clicker sound during training, whereas “good” or “yes” are words she’ll hear in other situations. This can confuse her, and the words may lose their meaningfulness. In addition, people’s speech varies, but the sound of the clicker is consistent.

How Else Can Clicker Training Be Used?

When you’re clicker training, you may “catch” the kitten doing something you want repeated. For example, if your goal is for her to come to the front of the crate, click and toss in a treat if she takes even one step toward the front.

As the kitten begins accepting the click-and-treat game, up the ante by putting the treat nearer to the front of the crate. Step back and let the kitten finish the treat. Then, stand still and watch for any movement toward the front of the crate. Click exactly during that movement, give the treat, and step back. The kitten is learning that she can make you click and treat if she moves toward the front of the crate. Once she understands that a step toward the front of the crate is rewarded, wait for her to take two steps before clicking and treating.

When a behavior is understood, give it a name, or cue, such as “Come.” Once the cue is learned, it’s not necessary to click, and rewards can be given less frequently.

How Long Should a Clicker Training Session Last?

Sessions that are five minutes or shorter and more frequent will be more effective than longer, less frequent sessions. Keeping a training log may be helpful to monitor the kitten’s progress and, if you’re working with more than one kitten, reduce confusion on your part.

What Treat and When?

Pick a time when the kitten is hungry and a treat that is pea-size (you can break up a larger treat) and soft so the kitten can eat it quickly. That way she remembers why she got the treat and is more likely to repeat the behavior.

What’s a Target Stick and How Is It Used?

A target stick can be a plastic spoon (easy to disinfect) with a long handle. The goal is to get the kitten to touch her nose to the end of the handle, which you place near the crate door. Hold the spoon end and the clicker in the same hand. (When the clicker is held in the same hand as the spoon, the noise it makes can seem loud to a kitten. If the kitten is frightened by the noise, switch the clicker to the other hand so it’s farther away.)

If the kitten is scared by the handle, smear tasty canned food on the end. The moment she moves toward it, even if she just turns her face to it, click, remove the spoon and toss in a treat. The moment she finishes the treat, offer the handle again. If she doesn’t make any movement, place the handle an inch or two in front of her. Click and treat when she touches the handle with her nose.

Once she reliably touches the handle, offer it to her at a slight distance, so she has to move toward it. Are we having fun yet? Let the kitten absorb the experience, and train again in a few hours or the next day.

What’s the Best Way to Use the Target Stick?

Once the kitten is eagerly touching the target stick, raise the bar by getting her to follow the stick back and forth across the tabletop or onto your lap.

Do Kittens Need to Be Separated for Clicker Training?

Because they learn from one another, it can be beneficial to initially keep kittens together in their crate and train them together. A more frightened kitten may see her bolder littermate getting treats and decide you’re not so bad after all. On the other hand, it may incite aggression between kittens so observe carefully to determine whether to train them together or separately.

Clicker training is fun. It can be used to teach many practical behaviors, such as come, or tricks, such as “high five.” Practice clicker training with your personal pets to help you get the hang of it so you can effectively socialize frightened furballs. You’ll increase their chances of adoption into a forever home, and that’s worth lots of clicks and treats!

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Nancy Peterson worked as a registered veterinary technician, trainer of dogs for people with disabilities other than blindness, and was Community Cats Program Manager for The Humane Society of the United States. She retired in 2015 and currently serves on the boards of Neighborhood Cats and The National Kitten Coalition. Nancy volunteers as a foster and cat cuddler for her local animal shelter, Colorado Animal Rescue (CARE). During COVID, she became an avid birder and is working to protect cats and birds by building bridges between cat and bird advocates.

Resources

“Getting Started: Clicker Training for Cats,” by Karen Pryor

“Fearful Kitten Socialization 101”

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/590a7f1303596e669d422f5d/t/5ed50c3595645801a7a41f3e/1591020601625/Fearful+Kitten+Socialization+101.pdf

The Paw Project and Fear Free Together At Last!

The Paw Project and Fear Free Together At Last!

The Paw Project’s beginning was rooted in helping relieve big cats from complications from being declawed. Thankfully, founder and director Dr. Jennifer Conrad saw the same need in domesticated felines. Don’t miss this opportunity to hear about her journey and her rebuttals against the common arguments in favor of elective feline onychectomy.

Fear Free Certified Practice Town Hall: Discontinuing Declaw Procedures

Fear Free Certified Practice Town Hall: Discontinuing Declaw Procedures

Following the announcement that Fear Free Certified Practices would be required to phase out elective feline onychectomies, we hosted a town hall with Fear Free founder Dr. Marty Becker, founder and director of The Paw Project Dr. Jennifer Conrad, pain management guru Dr. Michael Petty, and board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Valarie Tynes. The “whys” behind this decision were shared and we wrapped up the hour with Q&A from the audience.

You must be a Fear Free Certified Practice member and logged in to view this webinar

From Hiss to Kiss: Feral Kitten Socialization

Nancy PetersonSocialization prepares kittens to interact and be comfortable with people, other animals, objects, environments and activities. It can be very rewarding to turn hissing kittens into purring furballs.

However, when there are so many kittens who need homes, socializing those with the best chance of being adopted is important. Generally, the younger the kittens, the quicker they’ll socialize.

Kitten socialization can take from two to six weeks, depending on their age, personality inherited from their mother, friendliness inherited from their father and their early socialization experiences.

Although feral kittens can be weaned at 4 weeks of age, they have the best chance of survival with their healthy mom. For that reason, trap mom and her kittens when they’re 6 weeks old.

At that age, the kittens are still within the primary socialization window, from 2 to 7 weeks of age, when It’s easiest to socialize them. That said, older kittens may still come around since individuals develop at different rates.

Generally, feral kittens older than 16 weeks should be spayed/neutered, vaccinated, ear tipped (the universal sign of a spayed/neutered cat) and returned to their colony. That frees up cage space and staff time for younger kittens.

Housing the family apart from the general kitten population may be impractical, but options exist. Use a quiet one- or two-person office, which allows the family to become comfortable in an indoor environment and daily human activities.

Place a large wire crate with small openings (so kitten body parts don’t get stuck) on a table in the office. Include a hiding box, facing away from the front of the crate, in the crate. Cover the crate with a lightweight sheet that you retract as the family grows more secure.

Food is one of the best tools for socializing kittens. Kitten kibble should always be available, but toss in small, tasty morsels when you approach the crate so kittens and mom look forward to your presence.

When you feed wet food, first place the bowls toward the back of the crate; stay nearby when you provide wet food and treats to help create trust and positive associations with you. Move closer to the crate each time you feed. Then move the bowls closer and closer to the front of the crate and remain close.

If after three days, mom is still highly stressed and charges you when you approach the crate, spay, vaccinate, deworm, ear tip, and return her to her colony.

Older kittens who have learned to swat and bite and continue doing so 1 and a half weeks after removing mom should be spayed, vaccinated, ear tipped, and returned to their colony.

If the kittens are only hissing and spitting, carry on. However, if one isn’t coming around, house him in another location and work with him individually. You can return him to his siblings once he has progressed.

When they’re eating wet food at the front of the crate, try “petting” kittens on their face and chin with a toothbrush through the crate. Offer your bent forefinger through the crate near their bowl and see if they rub against it.

Don’t offer food on your finger or allow kittens to play with your hand. They may accidentally bite or scratch you, teaching them it’s okay to bite and scratch.

Since most feral kittens are initially frightened by interactive toys, start with one that isn’t too threatening, such as a wand toy, that allows you to play with them from a distance through the crate. Aim for small sessions, while talking on the phone or attending an online webinar, for a total of two hours a day.

Once the kittens allow you to touch them through the crate, try the following while they’re eating in the crate, but not after playing with them as they’ll be too worked up.

  • Rest your hand in the crate.
  • Put light pressure on their sides and gently move them from one food bowl to another.
  • Put gentle pressure on their underside in preparation to being picked up.
  • Lift them slightly, facing away from you, with both hands. Gradually lift them a bit longer and higher.

If there’s no struggling or tension, move one kitten at a time out the door; then quickly return him to the crate. Progress until you can lift the kitten out of the crate to a dish of food placed just beyond the door. If the kitten runs back into the crate, leave the crate door open and see if he ventures out on his own.

Once they’re comfortable outside the crate, briefly cuddle each kitten close to your body so they feel your warmth and heartbeat. When kittens are relaxed being held, cuddle them often. Once they seek your company, have other people provide treats and petting in preparation for the kittens’ adoption into a forever home.

If possible, adopt kittens in pairs or into a home with other friendly cats and no young children whose erratic movements and loud voices would be scary. Inform potential adopters that the kittens were feral and provide adopters with the resources listed at the end of this article so they understand the importance of socialization.

As with all new pets, adopted kittens should initially be confined to a kitten-proofed room with food, water, litter box, bed and toys. Hiding is normal and kittens shouldn’t be grabbed and dragged out. They can be lured with a toy onto their adopter’s lap.

Giving kittens time to adjust by talking, playing, petting and offering special treats will build trust and create a lasting bond.

Resources:

http://torontoferalcatcoalition.ca/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/10-the_behaviour_dept_taming_feral_cats.pdf

https://marketplace.animalsheltering.org/magazine/articles/kitty-their-hands\

https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/animal-emotions/202003/the-cat-human-relationship-and-factors-affect-it

https://catvets.com/public/PDFs/PracticeGuidelines/FelineBehaviorGLS.pdf

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Nancy Peterson worked as a registered veterinary technician, trainer of dogs for people with disabilities other than blindness, and was Community Cats Program Manager for The Humane Society of the United States. She retired in 2015 and currently serves on the boards of Neighborhood Cats and The National Kitten Coalition. Nancy volunteers as a foster and cat cuddler for her local animal shelter, Colorado Animal Rescue (CARE). During COVID, she became an avid birder and is working to protect cats and birds by building bridges between cat and bird advocates.

That Hurts, But I Won’t Tell You About It: How to Find and Help Your Feline OA Patients

Jason Doolittle, DVMFelis catus – the domestic cat – is an amazing animal who delights and surprises even those of us who have spent years working with them. Among their many unique personality traits is their ability, highly evolved and adapted over thousands of years, to mask their pain when frightened, surprised, or otherwise stressed. It should be no surprise, then, that when your feline patients are in an unfamiliar environment, surrounded by sights, sounds, and smells they don’t recognize (such as a veterinary exam room), they will be inclined to mask their pain.

Cats in these situations also commonly experience fear, anxiety, and stress (FAS). FAS can cause a cat to mask their pain but could also result in behaviors easily mistaken for signs of pain. Partnering with your client, the cat owner, is essential to make an accurate diagnosis of pain in your feline patients.

Helping our feline patients with osteoarthritis (OA) starts at home, with our clients. As you are aware, cat owners are highly attuned to even small changes in their cat’s habits, personality, and idiosyncrasies that make them unique. Partner with your clients and teach them to screen for OA pain at home with a validated Cat OA Checklist produced by Zoetis. On this website, there are three simple screening steps that should only take your clients a few minutes to complete:

  1. The first step utilizes animations to show healthy cat movement in performing several activities (e.g., climbing upstairs) compared to how cats move with joint disease. Your clients will be asked to check on the animations that are consistent with how their cat moves and that are suggestive of OA-related pain.
  2. The next step evaluates, on a scale, the cat owner’s perception of their favorite feline’s emotional and physical well-being. Because OA is a chronic disease that can affect cats emotionally, this is an important step in connecting to the disease state.
  3. The third, and final, step briefly summarizes, with yes/no questions, general behavior changes.

Once complete, clients can enter their email address to receive a copy of the checklist results. In some cases, clients will see the need to bring their cat into you for evaluation; others will need some encouragement to make an appointment. Consider recommending that your clients email the checklist results so you can identify those who might need to be seen.

To help prepare you for these kitties who will be coming to your office, Zoetis has created a website that provides you with resources such as helping to build cat owner awareness of feline pain, talk through the OA checklist they have completed, and feline orthopedic exam resources, including demonstration videos. This website contains a link to a printable version of the Cat OA Checklist that could be used, for example, with a client who has come into your office with their dog but has a cat at home that you haven’t seen in several years to encourage them to seek veterinary care for their feline companion.

It is important to remember that using Fear Free and Cat Friendly principles may mean that some cats who are coming to you to be evaluated for OA may require pharmaceutical help to remain calm. Keep in mind that some anxiolytic regimens may also produce analgesia and alter your exam findings. Objective diagnostic tools, such as orthopedic radiographs, are also an important part of the complete clinical evaluation.

Orthopedic exams and diagnosing OA in cats are yet more reminders that cats are not small dogs! As you partner with your cat-owning clients by asking them to screen their cats in the environment where they are most likely to show signs of OA, you will be better able to diagnose your arthritic feline patients. This partnership will greatly enhance your reputation amongst your clients who will see you as a trusted advisor to their beloved and treasured cat companion.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.Sponsored by our friends at Zoetis Petcare. © 2021 Zoetis Services LLC. All rights reserved. NA-02588

Experiences That Matter: Providing Veterinary Care During The Pandemic

Experiences That Matter: Providing Veterinary Care During The Pandemic

Pet owners have many options when choosing their veterinary healthcare provider. Why should they choose you? Differentiating yourself is a challenge at the best of times, made even more problematic during a pandemic where curbside care has limited our ability to created strong, long-lasting bonds with our clients.

In this webinar, Jonathan Bloom, DVM, presents new, easy-to-use strategies that result in “experiences that matter” and that very quickly define you as the veterinarian of choice.

Brought to you by Elanco.

Fear Free Euthanasia: Help Pets and People Say Goodbye Peacefully

Julie Liu, DVMPet parents will remember their animal’s euthanasia for the rest of their lives, and if their pet is agitated or anxious, they’ll remember that, too. Helping them to plan ahead can make the experience easier for your patients and their families.

When people make the difficult decision to euthanize a pet, there are many other smaller decisions they’ll have to make, such as when to schedule and whether they or their children should be present. Among the details that should be considered on your end is how you can reduce the animal’s fear, anxiety, and stress during their final moments.

When pets have a fear of the veterinarian and are brought in for euthanasia, their stress levels can escalate. The procedures that may take place before euthanasia can be scary or painful, such as being restrained by a veterinary staff member while their front leg is shaved and an IV catheter is placed. While this usually occurs away from the owner, the experience is often stressful enough that the difference is noticeable when the pet is returned to the exam room.

Even if a particular patient doesn’t routinely require anti-anxiety medications, consider them when clients are bringing pets in for euthanasia. Many pet parents have concerns about their sedating effects, but this is one instance where it truly doesn’t matter–sedation will only help the euthanasia go more smoothly. Dispense them at least a few days ahead of time to ensure that the client is able to give a test dose before the day of the pet’s euthanasia. Some anti-anxiety medications such as gabapentin also help reduce pain, so they can decrease discomfort to procedures such as IV catheter placement prior to euthanasia. If your patient is agitated or is still fearful despite oral pre-visit pharmaceuticals, consider injectable sedation prior to euthanasia. The last thing a pet parent wants to see in their time of grief is their pet flailing, vocalizing, or trying to escape. Sedation will decrease stress for the pet and their family.

If your practice routinely uses IV catheters for euthanasias, have clients rub a lidocaine numbing cream such as Supernumb on the tops of their pet’s forelegs several hours prior to euthanasia. IV catheter placement is painful, and numbing the area will make for a more compassionate experience, especially since multiple catheter attempts are sometimes needed in debilitated pets .

In your Fear Free practice, you use treats with patients during routine visits, and you can use them with euthanasia, too. Providing a smorgasbord of vanilla ice cream, lunch meat, cheese chunks, Churu, peanut butter, or whipped cream will allow clients to continue bonding with their pets while lowering their stress. Take care to avoid giving greasy foods such as burgers–while tempting to offer as a last meal, they can cause nausea and gastrointestinal upset.

If you don’t offer housecalls for patient euthanasia, I urge you to consider it. Even pets who don’t have a strong fear of veterinary visits will never be as relaxed at the vet as they will in their home, with their familiar bed and environment. You can even have classical music playing quietly in the background to help create a calming environment. I’ve euthanized several pets in their homes, and in every instance I felt that the experiences of the pet and the owner were better than they would have been in the clinic environment.

Pets deserve to have a Fear Free death as much as they deserve to have a Fear Free life. By considering a patient’s emotional health during their final days, you’ll help make their passing as compassionate as possible.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Julie Liu, DVM, CVA (Certified Veterinary Acupuncturist) is a small-animal veterinarian who practices in Austin, Texas. In addition to advocating for Fear Free handling of pets, she is passionate about feline medicine and senior pet care.
 
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