Skip to main content

Blog Archives

Course Overview

The CSR is the client’s first point of contact with the veterinary clinic. They play an important role in communicating the Fear Free concept and helping the client prepare their pet for a Fear Free vet visit. This module will help CSRs better understand how to “Speak Fear Free” to clients. It will provide sample scripts and tips. It will also provide them with a better understanding of the FAS scale, an awareness of their surroundings, the knowledge of what steps to take to ensure a positive experience for each pet, and more.

This course was written by Louise Dunn.

This course consists of three lessons:

  • Lesson 1: The CSRs Role for the Pre-Visit
  • Lesson 2: Creating the Fear Free Environment
  • Lesson 3: How to “Speak Fear Free” to Clients
Julie Liu, DVMSeveral months ago, my senior Bichon mix, Dorie, developed severe gastrointestinal issues. She was trembling with pain and nausea, stopped her favorite pastime of body slamming her toys against the couch, and eventually became inappetent.

Medicating Dorie has always been a challenge because she can sniff out anything no matter how well I try to hide it, but during her illness it became impossible. Even worse, the fear, anxiety, and stress (FAS) she experienced during my attempts to medicate her were almost as traumatizing to me as a pet parent as they were to her. When she didn’t respond to hospitalization I brought her to a specialty hospital for endoscopic biopsies, and during her anesthetic procedure the internist placed an esophagostomy tube (E tube).

The sense of relief I felt at having the option to medicate her and feed her through the tube without causing FAS was immense. Dorie was ultimately diagnosed with inflammatory bowel disease and required weeks of immunosuppressive doses of steroids before she started body slamming her toys again, and without her E tube I wonder if she would have recovered.

As Fear Free practitioners we always try to consider a pet’s wants vs. needs, but when treatments are medically indicated for an unwilling sick pet, we have to find a different approach. The use of E tubes provides a compassionate solution to disease management that should be considered for a variety of illnesses and not only as a last resort.

Indications for E Tube Placement

Historically, many veterinarians have recommended E tubes for gastrointestinal diseases such as feline hepatic lipidosis, cholangiohepatitis, IBD, and pancreatitis. These pets can have a prolonged road to recovery and the conversation about E tube placement should be started with clients early–when their pet has had anorexia reported for a few days. At best, syringe feeding an icteric cat with hepatic lipidosis can fall short of the caloric needs required for their recovery. At worst, it can result in aspiration pneumonia, fear of the client, and injuries as the client struggles with the pet.

Conditions that cause oral pain, such as facial trauma and significant dental disease, are additional indications for E tubes when we consider the role of pain in contributing to FAS.

Rather than sending a pet home after full-mouth extractions with some canned food and oral pain medications and hoping for the best, we can have a proactive discussion with the client about an E tube at the time of surgery. This is particularly important in cases where the pet has already had decreased appetite preoperatively and adds minimal time and cost to the procedure. In cases of oral neoplasia where the client is not ready to pursue humane euthanasia, placement of an E tube to deliver nutrition and analgesia may provide at least some relief to the patient until the next quality of life discussion with the client.

In pets with chronic kidney disease, an E tube can make a huge impact on long-term management and maintaining the client-pet bond. I remember attempting to give subcutaneous fluids to my first cat with kidney disease and managing exactly one poke before she jumped off her cat perch and ran away while the fluid line whipped around, spraying fluids everywhere. Some clients are also uncomfortable with handling needles and having to inject their pet with fluids and can inadvertently poke themselves in the process. An E tube can allow a client to administer daily fluids and anti-nausea medications easily without causing FAS or discomfort.

In addition, many pets with CKD find renal diets unpalatable and develop nausea, inappetence, and weight loss as their azotemia worsens, leading their owners to feed them whatever they will eat. Placement of an E tube ensures that their pet will receive both adequate nutrition needed to maintain their body weight as well as the recommended prescription diet to try to slow progression of their disease.

While there may be an increased level of anesthetic risk for patients with CKD or other underlying health conditions, placement of an E tube1 is very quick (typically less than 30 minutes for placement and radiographic confirmation of location) and can provide weeks to months to even years of benefit. Once the stoma heals, it may be possible to exchange the tube through the same stoma site without general anesthesia by using topical anesthesia and the techniques outlined by Dr. Sheri Ross in 2016, in which she describes one feline patient with CKD whose stoma site was maintained for almost 5 years using E tube exchanges2 .

Client Education

Perhaps one of the challenging aspects of E tubes is overcoming the perceived stigma attached to the tube itself. Some clients may agree to several days of hospitalization for their pet but draw the line at an E tube because they associate it with end-of-life care. While this may be true with some conditions such as oral neoplasia, in others an E tube can actually save their pet’s life or improve management of a chronic disease. Most pets with an E tube also don’t seem to notice it at all, and will eat, drink, groom, and even body slam their toys with their E tube in place.

Some clients may also feel squeamish at the prospect of handling and using an E tube for their pets. Washable, patterned neck wraps such as the Kitty Kollar3 or Kanine Kollar have been amazing at minimizing the “medical” aspect of E tubes, and their website provides a great starting point for educating owners when initiating an E tube conversation. Once the E tube is placed and the pet is ready to be released from the hospital, provide written discharge instructions4 with a recommended schedule for medicating, watering, feeding, and cleaning based on that pet’s calculated water and caloric requirements to ensure that the pet is getting everything they need. Scheduling a teleconsult the following day and printing a weight chart for the patient at every recheck will provide additional guidance and positive reinforcement. When your client realizes how easy it is to treat their pet with the E tube, you can consider asking them to be a resource for others who are on the fence about having one placed for their pet.

Summary

E tubes can be used successfully for a variety of acute and chronic illnesses, and their ability to remove the FAS associated with treatments is significant. Weighing the risks vs. benefits of the brief anesthesia needed for placement is important, but when routine medical management is inadequate, we need to be proactive in advocating for our patients and work together to destigmatize these invaluable tools.

Resources

  1. https://www.cliniciansbrief.com/article/esophagostomy-feeding-tube
  2. Ross, S. Vet Clin North Am Small Anim Pract. 2016 Nov;46(6):1099-114.doi: 10.1016/j.cvsm.2016.06.014. Epub 2016 Aug 5. Utilization of Feeding Tubes in the Management of Feline Chronic Kidney Disease
  3. https://www.kittykollar.com
  4. http://vhc.missouri.edu/small-animal-hospital/small-animal-internal-medicine/diseases-and-treatments/esophagostomy-tube-information-and-care

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Julie Liu, DVM, CVA (Certified Veterinary Acupuncturist) is a small-animal veterinarian who practices in Austin, Texas. In addition to advocating for Fear Free handling of pets, she is passionate about feline medicine and senior pet care.
 
Mary L. Berg, BS, RVT, RLATG, VTS (Dentistry)Did you know that approximately 80 percent of adult dogs and 70 percent of adult cats have some form of oral disease? Dental problems in dogs and cats are among the top three pet owner concerns, and many have misconceptions about how to provide good oral care. Here is a list of the most common myths your clients believe about pet dental health or questions they have and what to know to answer them.

  1. White teeth equal a healthy mouth.

Not necessarily. The health of the gums is more important than the color of the teeth.  Red, swollen gums are a sign that infection is lurking below the gumline. Infection can lead to bad breath, tooth loss, and heart, liver, and kidney disease in pets. The best way to ensure that every pet has a healthy mouth is to have your veterinarian perform a regular oral examination and professional tooth cleaning procedure on at least an annual basis.

  1. Bad breath is normal in pets

Not true. Bad breath is an indicator of an infected mouth. The odor is often caused by by-products of bacteria in the mouth that form plaque and lead to dental disease. Pets with halitosis need a thorough dental exam and cleaning procedure.

  1. Anesthesia is scary, so non-anesthetic dental cleaning is the way to go.

There is always a risk when an animal is anesthetized, but a thorough pre-op examination and blood work along with individualized anesthetic protocols and monitoring reduces pets’ risk during anesthesia. An anesthesia-free dental cleaning provides no benefit to the pet’s oral health. Scaling or scraping the teeth with an instrument only makes a tooth whiter in appearance. Think of the tooth as an iceberg; we see only about one-third of the tooth with the remaining two-thirds below the gumline. Bacteria below the gumline quickly become pathologic and begin to destroy the tissues surrounding the tooth. It is not possible to eliminate bacteria beneath the gumline where damage is done. Scaling without proper polishing roughens the tooth surface, leaving more surface area for bacterial plaque to attach to the tooth surface. Anesthesia-free dental cleanings are dangerous because they give a false sense of security that the pet has a clean mouth, allowing periodontal disease to go undetected and untreated. See more at: http://avdc.org/AFD/pet-periodontal-disease/#sthash.EGBX3IuT.dpuf and http://avdc.org/AFD/

  1. Tooth brushing is too difficult, and my pet hates it and it really doesn’t help anyway.

While not all pets are willing to accept tooth brushing, it is the gold standard for good oral care.  It does take time to teach pets to accept tooth brushing. Have a detailed explanation and demonstration for the pet owner such as this: “Start slow, with your finger and some pet toothpaste. Hold the muzzle with one hand and gently insert your finger between the cheek and the teeth and ‘brush’ the teeth.  Reward pets with a favorite treat, praise, or game when they accept brushing! You may need to do this every day for a week to ensure your pet learns that it’s okay! Once the pet accepts your finger, begin using a toothbrush but introduce it slowly over several days. You only need to brush the outside of the teeth.” You can also refer clients to this video from Maddie’s Fund.

  1. Feeding hard kibble will keep my pet’s teeth clean.

Most dogs and cats swallow kibble whole, getting no dental benefit. Even if pets chew kibble, the kibble is too hard and breaks apart when the tooth hits it, offering no benefit. Some dental diets are designed to solve this problem. The kibble is larger and softer, comprising a fiber matrix that allows the tooth to penetrate the kibble, thus wiping plaque off the tooth.

  1. 6. Bones, chew toys, and tennis balls will help keep his teeth clean.

While your dog will love you for the bone, his teeth may not. The canine jaw does not shift side to side like a human jaw, so when dogs bite down on a bone they often fracture the carnassial teeth. These fractured teeth hurt and can lead to infections and abscesses if left untreated.

Here’s a good rule of thumb when choosing a chew toy: if you can’t easily bend it with your hands or if you wouldn’t want to be hit in the knee with it, don’t give it to a pet. Wild dogs and wolves often have multiple fractures in their mouths due to chewing on bones.

Playing fetch with a tennis ball is a great way to bond with your pet but put the ball away when done. The rough surface of the tennis ball can abrade tooth enamel over time. Dogs who constantly chew on tennis balls often have severely worn teeth that can become painful.

  1. Dogs and cats do not feel pain.

Our pets can’t tell us about the pain they feel, and they often want us to be happy, so they mask the pain. An infected mouth or a fractured tooth hurt and require treatment. Pets need to eat to stay alive so they will often figure out a way to do so that causes the least amount of pain.  If clients notice their pet dropping food or only chewing on one side of the mouth, their pet has a problem.

  1. It doesn’t bother me if my pet’s teeth aren’t pretty.

Pets with dental disease have an infection that should be treated just as an infected ear or wound would be treated. This infection is in the oral cavity and every time the animal chews, bacteria is released into the bloodstream, causing a detrimental effect on the heart, liver, and kidneys. There are even new studies linking joint issues to the oral cavity.

  1. Oral disease is an inevitable part of aging.

Pets who receive good oral home care and routine professional cleanings are much less likely to develop dental disease as they age. Many veterinary professionals believe that good oral care can add an average of two years to the life of a pet. Just as age is not a disease, dental disease does not have to be an issue in aging pets.

  1. How can I know if a dental product will really work for my pet?

The Veterinary Oral Health Council gives dental products a seal of approval for either plaque reduction or tartar reduction. The VOHC recognizes products that meet pre-set standards of plaque and calculus (tartar) retardation in dogs and cats. Types of products include special diets, toothbrushes, treats that may contain enzymes to help clean teeth, and treats or toys that can be filled with enzymatic pet toothpaste. Items awarded the VOHC Seal of Acceptance have been proven to work based on scientific studies and protocols. Bright Dental chews and toothpaste are currently in the midst of trials to earn VOHC certification.

References

Pavilica, Z., Petelin, M., Juntes, P, Erszen ,D., Crossley, DA, Skaleric, U,  “Periodontal Disease Burden and Pathological Changes in Organs of Dogs.”  J Vet Dent 2008 Jun:25(2):97-105.

DeBowes LJ: The effects of dental disease on systemic disease. Vet Clin North Am Small Anim Pract 28:1057. 1998

Debowes, LJ, Mosier, D. Association of periodontal disease and histologic lesions in multiple organs from 45 dogs. J Vet Dent 1996; 12: 57–60.

Maresz, KJ, etal, “Prophyromonas gingivalis facilitates the development and progression of destructive arthritis through its unique bacterial peptidylarginine deiminase (PAD)” .  PLos Pathog. 2013 Sep;9(9):e 1003627

Tang, Q, Fu H, Qin B, etal,”A possible link between rheumatoid arthritis and periodontitis: A systemic Review and Meta-analysis.” Int. J Periodontics Restorative Dent 2017, Jan/Feb, 37(1):79-96

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Mary is a charter member of the Academy of Veterinary Dental Technicians and received her Veterinary Technician Specialty in Dentistry in June 2006. She worked in research for over 28 years, specializing in products aimed at improving oral health of companion animals and continues to work with companies to evaluate the efficacy of their products. Mary is the founder and president of Beyond the Crown Veterinary Education, a veterinary dental consulting service.  She was named NAVTA Veterinary Technician of the Year in 2020 and received the AVDT’s Excellence in Dentistry Education award in 2019. Mary is a speaker and wet lab instructor at numerous state and national conferences. She lives on a small farm near Lawrence, Kansas, with her husband, Doug, and has two sons and three grandchildren.

Brought to you by


Heather E. LewisHealthy play is necessary for the wellbeing of all animals, including humans! For sheltered dogs, play has become increasingly important for many reasons:

  • We are more aware of the need to provide quality enrichment to sheltered animals.
  • Shelters are providing more behavioral care for dogs.
  • Play reduces fear, anxiety, and stress.
  • Play helps dogs feel more comfortable in the shelter environment.

We love designing for play. There are many small design nuances but here are some basic highlights:

  • Play Group Space. Play groups must be set up with the support of staff and volunteers, with proper training, as well as within the proper environment. Ideally, play groups will have the following:
    • A series of interconnected yards (rather than one large yard) to customize play groups based on dogs’ sizes and size needs.
    • Visual barriers between yards and kennels.
    • Double-gated entrances for safety.
    • Access to water via kiddie pools for the dogs to cool off and to provide a large water source that is less likely to be guarded.
    • Shading and reasonable surfaces are important as well. K9Grass (a brand of faux grass) is our favorite, but only if it is installed correctly so that it drains and does not collect water. It also needs to be shaded or it can get too hot for paws.
    • Safe fencing that keeps dogs contained without risk of escape.
  • Water Play. Water play works well for dogs who enjoy play groups and for those who do not. We have started incorporating splash parks for sheltered dogs (see photo). It is spectacular to witness a formerly fearful sheltered dog interacting playfully with water. Splash park plans must be created by people who know how to design for dogs, as they have different types of plumbing, surfacing, and play structures than those designed for children. When we design a splash park, we consider the following:
    • Incorporate additional space around the water feature so the dogs can go in and out of the water. This enhances choice.
    • Safe surfacing is critical. Our favorite is a soft, grip-textured surface designed for dogs.
    • The water itself should be safe. It is not recirculated, so it is best to have the water provide watering to landscaping once it has been used in park fountains.
  • Individual Play Spaces. We know that some dogs do better with one-on-one time than they do in groups, and we know that water features cannot be used during cold winters. Therefore, do not forget to provide these spaces for your sheltered dogs:
    • Walking Paths. These should be loop type with multiple forks along the loop, so that dogs do not have to pass each other side to side. Good walks provide exercise, connection, and some Fear Free training opportunities.
    • Ball Throwing Areas. We like to provide a larger yard (60’ long minimum) for flying disc or ball throwing.
    • Small (20×20, for example), more fully enclosed yards. These are great for gentle socializing with fearful dogs who may retreat in large yards, or for adoption meet and greet.

As we continue to improve the Fear Free shelter, dedicated play areas are a critical part of the design. It is best to designate outdoor areas for play so everyone gets fresh air, but if your shelter is land constrained, or in an urban location, playrooms can be indoor if necessary.

Regardless of your resources, find ways to incorporate play. For a dog, and especially one who is fearful, play is an important and often shorter path to happiness and comfort, as well as to finding the right forever home.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB, is a principal of Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities, including veterinary hospitals and animal shelters, for more than three decades.  She has worked on dozens of projects across the country, both large and small in her 19 years with the firm.  Heather is a member of the Fear Free℠ Advisory Board and assisted in creating the Fear Free facility standards for veterinary hospitals.  Heather is a regular contributor to various veterinary industry magazines.  She has spoken on the design of facilities for the care of animals at dozens of national and regional conferences including Fetch Hospital Design Conferences, the UC Davis Low Stress Animal Handling Conference, and the Humane Society of the United States Animal Care Expo.
Photo courtesy Humane Society of Southwest Missouri

Course Overview

True enrichment goes way beyond simply providing dogs with food puzzles each day. For instance, a comprehensive enrichment strategy incorporates all types of enrichment: social, occupational, physical, nutritional, and sensory. This course will show you how to engage all the senses, as well as how to thoughtfully determine which enrichment activities are most appropriate for individual dogs, how to enrich the lives of dogs in a veterinary clinic, and those who are recovering from an injury and on restricted exercise.

This course, approved for 1 RACE-approved CE hour, was written by Laura Ryder, CPDT-KA, KPA CTP, IMDT.

This course consists of four lessons:

  • Lesson 1: Exploring enrichment using all the senses
  • Lesson 2: Identifying the right balance
  • Lesson 3: Enrichment for dogs in the vet clinic
  • Lesson 4: Enrichment for dogs on restricted exercise or cage rest
|
Susan Claire, CPDT-KA, FFCATA young man called me because he could not get a harness or even a collar on Oakley, his 6-month-old Pomsky-Klee Kai mix. He explained that this had recently become a problem after an unfortunate incident with a Velcro-closure harness, which accidentally stuck to Oakley’s thick coat. It was frightening and painful for him when the owner pulled it off.

The situation was urgent because Oakley now snarled and snapped at the owner whenever he tried to put a collar or harness on him so he was unable to attach a leash to the dog to take him out for walks. I advised him to try to slip on a martingale collar and leave it on Oakley temporarily until we could get him to accept the harness. I don’t normally use a martingale but in this case it was a logical option.

When I arrived for the first session, Oakley—one of those dogs who never stop moving—showed interest in interactions and did not give distance-increasing behaviors, but he also didn’t ask to be touched. I began by using a clicker to mark and reward every time he stopped moving or made eye contact. Then I laid down a super-soft non-skid consent mat, sat in front of it, and used the clicker to shape Oakley into lying down facing me on the mat.

Then I showed the owner how to desensitize Oakley to first tolerating a stethoscope, then having his feet and ears touched, and finally to a fake injection with an empty syringe. We showed Oakley each item, marking and reinforcing him for sniffing it. We moved each item slowly toward him, always stopping if we observed stiff or avoidance body language. I name each item and procedure so the dog knows what to expect during these sessions, and I advise clients to use the same words while the veterinarian is performing an exam or procedure: “heart” for stethoscope, “feet,” “ears,” and “pinch-poke” for syringe/injection.

After this, we tried to use similar techniques to put a Sensation Harness and then a collar on Oakley. I saw the problem the owner described, so we switched gears. I wanted to know if Oakley was generally fearful, so I set up boxes for nosework, a Snuffle Mat, a Wobbler, and a Spin-it. Oakley engaged with these items enthusiastically, demonstrating no fear. We did a few behaviors on the consent mat (sit, watch me, touch, and down), allowing Oakley to disengage and go to the boxes or Snuffle Mat if he needed to de-stress and return to the consent mat when he was ready to re-engage. I instructed the owner to practice all of the above between our sessions.

During the second session, we repeated the above and added one behavior to the consent mat training: holding the harness for Oakley to see, clicking if he sniffed it or moved his head toward it, and eventually trying to lure his head through it while saying “Put it on” but not restraining him in any way. We were successful with this but not in clipping the harness. We then did some obedience/safety exercises, such as come and loose-leash walking and finished with a game of fetch.

At the third session, Oakley greeted me with distance-decreasing behaviors and physical requests to be touched. He was happy to interact and be touched. When I put the consent mat on the floor, he ran to it and lay down, eagerly awaiting our interactions. The owner and I slowly went through the desensitization-to-handling process and he was able to get the mini Sensation Harness (with its tiny little clip) onto Oakley and clip it, with no snarling, biting, freezing, or avoidance behaviors of any kind from the dog. I was pleasantly surprised and the owner was thrilled.

I advised him to continue to use food while putting the harness on or taking it off to keep the positive association going, to always use the phrase “Put it on” to alert Oakley to what was coming, and to continue the consent mat handling exercises so that Oakley would be comfortable during veterinary exams. I advised as well to always end with a short play session or walk.

The icing was the nice Yelp review from the owner, who described the problem and wrote,  “Susan was amazing! She was great to work with and I am so happy with the results!”

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

 

Pheromones to Help Pets Cope with Holiday Stress

The holidays are often overlooked as a major time for stress in our patients’ lives. In this webinar, Valarie V. Tynes, DVM, DACVB, DACAW, will review the common triggers occurring from October through the end of December and how to equip your clients with the best information to make it a happy holiday season for everyone.

Brought to you by our friends at Ceva Animal Health

Bad Breath Is a Really Big Deal!

One of the first things veterinarians learn is that the whole body is connected—even poor oral health can have lasting impacts on a dog’s longevity and quality of life. Fighting smelly breath before it starts by implementing (easy!) at-home dental routines can ensure your patients have more wags and fewer worries. Join Jan Bellows, DVM, DAVDC, as he discusses the importance of canine dental care.

Brought to you by BARK.

Heather E. LewisMany veterinary practices have developed effective solutions for Fear Free exams and for low-stress patient housing. The next important area to tackle, the treatment room, is an inherently stressful space. Why are treatment rooms so stressful and what can we do to reimagine them?

Treatment rooms are stressful because they are generally designed to be a wide-open space, with many different functions occurring simultaneously. Treatment rooms are this way to ensure efficiency of staffing and safety for patients. For example, animals may be housed in treatment because this is the location where they can be monitored most easily. What if it were possible to maintain safety and efficiency, while de-stressing the treatment and other medical areas of your hospital? I know that it is! Below are a few of our favorite solutions for incorporating Fear Free design concepts throughout the medical areas of the hospital.

Separated Cat Treatment. One of the easiest ideas to implement is a separate cat treatment area located near cat exam rooms and ward. With this design, the cat areas of the hospital can function as a “mini clinic” space. This does not take a lot of room and removes cats from the chaos of the primary treatment space. Designs that include windows into the main treatment room allow for better communication between the cat area and other medical spaces.

Minor Treatment. This treatment space is located behind exam rooms and functions as a quiet area for simple procedures that might need more space or equipment than an exam room might offer. The client can step into this space as well. This minor treatment space is intentionally placed away from potentially frightening and unfamiliar sounds, smells, and activity associated with procedures and surgery. It can remain calmer and quieter because of its placement.

Treatment Curtains. Treatment curtains are borrowed from cubicle curtains used in human medical triage and emergency care. They allow for flexible visual privacy, and they also cut down on noise and visual stimuli, as we have learned anecdotally from using them. A curtain track can be placed in the ceiling around any treatment table to convert it into a semiprivate space.

Separate ICU and Recovery. Separating more critical patients behind glass in the treatment space does wonders. Even if you have few critical or recovering patients, separating them will help create a quieter treatment space and quieter patient space. If you like the idea of glassed wards for more critical patients, ensure that the glass goes to the floor so you can quickly glance in and monitor patients, to continue to keep them safe.

Better Materials and Systems. Once the design is reworked to make treatment areas more specialized, focus on the next layer of design: selecting better materials and systems. Here are a few of our favorite ideas:

  • Dimmable lighting. Lighting that dims allows you to de-stress the space when things are quiet, such as overnight for hospitalized pets.
  • Windows and daylight into treatment. Placing some outside daylight in the treatment room can make it feel more connected to the natural environment, helping to de-stress the space and make your staff feel a lot better.
  • Indoor/Outdoor options. As the Covid-19 crisis has taught us, having some flexible outdoor space can be very helpful for a veterinary practice. What about having a treatment porch, or if that is too ambitious, what about at least having a few operable windows, or a beautiful garden for walking post-surgical patients?
  • Noise control. Noise control is critical. Use good ceiling materials that cut down on noise. Use quiet casters on your chairs, and quiet latches on cages. Every bit of unnecessary noise is an opportunity to rethink design elements.

We have a long way to go with veterinary treatment spaces, but with Fear Free, we’re on our way to reimagining medical care that is far better for the emotional wellbeing of pets than it has been in the past. We are excited to see your ideas implemented in the treatment room of tomorrow, and we know that we will never look back.

This article was reviewed/edited by board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Kenneth Martin and/or veterinary technician specialist in behavior Debbie Martin, LVT.

Heather E. Lewis, AIA, NCARB, is a principal of Animal Arts, an architectural firm that has exclusively designed animal care facilities, including veterinary hospitals and animal shelters, for more than three decades.  She has worked on dozens of projects across the country, both large and small in her 19 years with the firm.  Heather is a member of the Fear Free℠ Advisory Board and assisted in creating the Fear Free facility standards for veterinary hospitals.  Heather is a regular contributor to various veterinary industry magazines.  She has spoken on the design of facilities for the care of animals at dozens of national and regional conferences including Fetch Hospital Design Conferences, the UC Davis Low Stress Animal Handling Conference, and the Humane Society of the United States Animal Care Expo.